Im gettig close to being ready to apply my first coat of finish to a pretty nice stock ive been working on.

Previous stocks ive used tung oil finish for the intire process.

This one I want to use a thinned Varnish, Urathane type finish to soak into the wood, then a tung oil later after wet sanding.



I allways read stock finishers saying "Spar Varnish" I think.



I used some stuff called Man O War Spar Varnish long ago on a Bar B Que table and it didnt seem like very good stuff .It Pealed up after being in the eliments.



Ive seen and used that Flecto Varathane stuff on some other wood projects and it seemed pretty good



Whats a Good Brand that you stock guys are useing.



Thanks rick

A couple of years ago on this forum, Jack Belk posted a recipe for finishing stocks. It consisted of a solution of marine spar varnish, danish oil and paint thinner in equal proportions.

I've used it on two stocks and am very pleased with the results. The process is to soak the stock for 10-12 hours to seal then finish using the same solution.

Specifically, I used Interlux Schooner marine Spar varnish, Deft Marine Teakwood Finish(a urethane/tung oil penetrating oil) and household paint thinner or varsol)

Yea , I remember that. Ive been useing just straight deft danish tung oil with the urathain resins. Thin it for the first coat.

I havent seen that brand of spar that you posted.

I just found Bill Soverns brew. He used McCloskeysMarine varnish. I think ive seen that at the store.

Im going to seal it and fill the pours first , then use the tung oil.

My ears were burnin!!!

Ive used that McKlosky's for several years with good results but I reckon any good marine grade varnish will do the job sufficiently thinned. I've been using Dembart Stock & Checkering oil for my hand rubbing coats on the past few rifles with nice results. Brownells carries it. It comes in small bottles so if you dont like it you dont have a quart sitting around

Some time ago someone posted a detailed essay on stock finishing. Could someone please re post it, or better yet supply us with a detailed description of their own method of finishing a stock? Thanks.

Stock finishing

This is by no means an all inclusive procedure. This method works for me and by no means is the only way to finish a gunstock. A list of supplies is first followed by stepped procedures.

Supplies

Wet/dry 320 grit paper
Wet/dry 600 grit paper
Wet/dry 1200 grit paper
Wet/dry 1800 grit paper
1 pint of marine varnish(McCloskey’s)
1 quart of Daly’s BenMatte tung oil
Mineral spirits.
Rotten stone
Several hard felt pads
0000 steel wool
lots of clean rags or paper towels

Lets assume that the stock has been thoroughly block sanded from 100 grit up to 320 grit. Never sand a stock with out a hard backing surface! The next step is whiskering. Wet the stock thoroughly and use a hair dryer or other no flame heat source to quickly dry the wood. This will raise the fine whiskers on the stock. Rub the stock cross grain with the 0000 steel wool to cut the whiskers off. Repeat this process until no more whiskers will stand up. Usually takes about 6 times.

Sealing the wood

Get your can of marine varnish and mix equal portions of the varnish and mineral spirits in glass jar. Take a rag or brush and slop this mixture over the entire stock. This includes the inletting, barrel channel, under the grip cap, recoil pad. Let stand for an hour and wipe off the excess if there is any. Let is dry good and hard for about 4 or 5 days. Repeat the procedure and this time let dry for at least a week. The wood should be thoroughly sealed at this point.


Filling the pores

Get your mix of varnish and mineral spirits out again and pour some onto a plate. Get a piece of that hard felt and some 320 grit wet/dry paper. Dip the paper in the mixture and block sand the surface with the grain. This process creates a mixture of wood dust and finish. It should look like mud. Be sure to change your paper every so often so you are cutting well. Once the stock has been completely wet sanded take your clean paper towel and very gently wipe the surface cross grain. Wipe as though you were dusting a fine piece of porcelain. This will push the mud you created into the pores. Let dry a couple of days. Repeat this procedure until all the pores have been filled. Different stocks will take require more wet sandings than others. It will depend on how porous the wood is. The stocks I work with usually take 6 wet sandings to fill the pores. The final time you do this wipe off the stock completely with the grain. Leave no mud on the stock. Let dry for at least a week.


Building the finish

Grab that can of Daly’s Ben Matte tung oil, your hard felt pads, and your 320 grit paper. Pour some tung oil on a plate and wet sand the entire stock. Wipe completely off with the grain. Repeat process with 320. Continue wet sanding and wiping off completely with 600, 1200, 1800 grit paper. Do each stage twice.


The Rub Out

This part can be difficult and frustrating so take your time. Get your rotten stone, the tung oil, and your hard felt pad. Pour some tung oil on a plate and dip the hard felt pad in the finish…pick up some rotten stone with the wet pad. Rub with the grain VERY gently. Work a small area then move on to another. Keep dipping in the tung oil and then the rotten stone. The more stone you have on the pad the faster it cuts so watch it. This usually takes me a couple of hours so don’t rush it. When the stock has been completed rubbed out take a clean paper towel and soak it with the tung oil. Wipe the stock down with the rag to remove all the stone. Then take a dry paper towel and wipe the stock dry.
Let this sit around for 2 weeks.


The Final Finish

All of your hard work now comes down to this. This is the finish that everyone will see so take your time. Pour a little (like a teaspoon) of tung oil into a small dish( I use an ashtray). Pick up a single drop of tung oil with your finger and rub it in thoroughly. Work a small area and use only one drop at a time. You are applying very thin coats of finish here that will dry quickly and should not allow lint to collect on the surface. If your finish is very thin it should dry over night. Wait another day just to be sure. Apply another coat. You are done when the stock looks like you want it too. I usually do five hand rubbed coats but you may like the way it looks after just one or two. Its up to you. If you make a mistake, or have a run in the finish you can always rub the stock out again with your rotten stone and start the hand rubbed process over.

I usually let the stock hang around for about a month before I checker it or subject it to any kind of weather. Well I hope this has been informative. Good luck and you know where to find me if you need help.