I have a CZ Model 3 300WSM that has some accuracy issues. I purchased it new back in Dec. I did some load development during the winter and it shot fairly well. Several loads were right around 1 1/4 inches. I brought it to a local Gunsmith to have it bedded and free floated. Thought this may tighten things up.

This is a typical 4 shot group after bedding. Usually three close and one way out there.



Here are some pictures of the bedding job. What do you think? The bedding looks messed up to me.





Rifle CZ Model 3 300WSM
Leupold DD Bases and Rings
Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 Side focus.

Try it with a different scope.

Clemson

the bedding looks fine.

try a pressure pad a few inches back from the forend tip.
try a small cut from a milk jug or bleach bottle for this.

try holding on to the gun real tight and then maybe just free recoil into your shoulder.

be consistent
.

All the epoxy has to do is sit there and take a beating. While the appearance of the job doesn't look all that great, it looks sufficient provided the action is level and not binding. Among other things I'd check the crown.

The bedding was done in two maybe three stages. The front recoil lug area was done first. After that cured the rear tang area was done.

If you look close at the rear tang area you will see that there is NO action metal impressions. It looks as though the compound was applied with a finger and allowed to dry. Then it was ground away to allow the action to be seated.

If you look close at this silly little finger towards the muzzle you can see that it was also added after. The light colored compound between the lug bedding and the finger is high. It looks as though he tried to grind it down, but left it to high. Also take a look at the area on each side just ahead of the recoil lug. There are two spots of compound that were added after that are also high.

Maybe I'm all wet, but this looks to me like a bedding-action bind problem.

Well, everyone does it a little different and I see things I would correct if it was mine. And I admit looking at pictures can be fooling but here goes:


In the first picture I see very little contact with the metal. The epoxy has a textured look that doesn't look the same as epoxy that is bedded hard against a smooth metal surface. In fact, there are no tool marks in it at all which implies to me that there is minimal contact or support of the tang.

In picture two it looks like the contact points are the bottom of the action lug (which should not be touching) and the barrel shank. I see no evidence of the front action ring contacting bedding at the action screw. If it were, that edge where the epoxy stops would be feathered into the wood instead of having a ridge.

This means when you tighten that front screw the action is tensioned between the rear tang and the barrel shank or recoil lug when it should be evenly supported the whole length.

The recoil lug needs to be free-floated front, sides and bottom with contact only on the rear face.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful; I'm just responding based on my experiences. I hope it helps.

The term "gunsmith" is used very loosely sometimes...

quote:

Originally posted by steve4102:
The bedding was done in two maybe three stages. The front recoil lug area was done first. After that cured the rear tang area was done...

You have the benefit of having the thing there to eyeball. It is damned tough to try to guess at stuff based on detail or lack of detail via a photo. If it looks bad too you then have it re-done by someone who knows how to make it look right. After all "looks" is half the battle.

From looking at the photos it looks like someone smeared on the bedding compound around the action with there fingers and then allowed it to harden before they sat the action in place. I would "blacken" the action and set it in the stock and see where contact is or is not being made and if the action is not setting correctly I would return it to whomever did the job.

Steve

Like some of the others, I dont want to judge too harshly by photos but it appears the glass bedding is not making contact everywhere. And also looks like someone did some finger dobbing in an attempt to fill some voids. If any of this is correct, the bedding is going to be terribly off.

If you have access to a dial indicator, assemble the gun, attach the dial indicator post to the barrel with the stylus touching the stock fore end. Alternately tighten and lossen the front and rear action screws. There should not be more than .005 inch movement, preferably around .001 or .002. If there is zero, something is in a bind or stuck.

If you dont have dial indicator, alternately loosen and tighten the screws as described and watch the barrel in the fore end area for move ment. You should not be able to detect any with the naked eye. Also watch at the tang for movement.

The bedding job should have had the flat behind the recoil lug lowered and glass support there as well. I see none.

I would not confront the person who did this, just consider it a lesson learned and look for a competant gunsmith to re bed it.

Doing your bedding in two or three stages is not the way to bed a rifle unless you bed each surface every time you lay bedding compound in the stock. And you need to bed completely behind the recoil lug.

A picture is worth a thousand words, and in this case............none of them good.

I'm surprised it shot as well as it did.


Leave the indicator on your bench and reach for a dremel first........................

Well, I drove a couple of hours last night and had my CZ Model 3 checked out by the best Gunsmith in the area. He was not impressed to say the least (with the bedding, not me). As soon as he saw the bedding he new who had done the work. He has seen it many times before. He is going to remove the old bedding and set me up right, $$$. I will let you know how it shoots in about 5 weeks when I get it back.

Thanks for the Help.