On the factory stock the rear screw only goes through about 1/4" of wood. I guess that's enough to hold a pillar? What do guys do with this?

I normally put a .500" pillar in the rear and then mill away enough to provide clearance for the trigger.

I'm doing one now for my Grandson. I am using a HiTech stock. Barely enough material for a 1/2" rear piller. I did drill and tap the rear tang 1/4x28.
Butch

I don't know a good way to describe this, but this rear pillar will only be completely surrounded by wood for about 1/4 the rest of it will only be in contact with wood for about half way around it. On another note I trued the action today and it is the straightest action I have ever done.

This is my Grandson's 600. The Shilen trigger on it wouldn't work and now has a 600 trigger.


I have the pillers in the stock and need to bed it.
This receiver was very straight. It took .005 on the face and about .009 to clean up the threads.
Butch

KWK: That is enought to hold the piller. The piller itself takes the clamping pressure from the screws. I've never had a problem with the few that I've done.

That's a nice looking action. The one I'm doing is for someone else so we're keeping the original bolt. Is that a PTG bolt? This one I trued took .012 on the threads, .001 on the face and I couldn't tell if there was any difference in the lug faces. As soon as the tool touched it was touching both surfaces.
Jim, it does look like it should work, it's going to have to be a smaller pillar, which is fine, I've just never put pillars in one of these before.

The bolt is from Dan Armstrong, www.accu-tig.com. Dan tig welded it on. I will probably have to mill a little off the front side of the rear pillar.
Butch

Butch,
Milling rear pillar fwd face-
If the OEM safety lever is installed on the trigger group you have to mill the fwd face of the pillar depending on diameter.

The swing safety, makes life easier in that aspect.