I was told that M 70 bottom metal could be easily made to fit a M54. Does anyone know what is involved in doing this? Any help would be appreciated.

Mike Allred

I've not actually done it, but I've mocked it up with my 54 in a pre-64 stock and parts.

All you need to do is have the front screw hole drilled and tapped into the flat behind the recoil lug, in the same location as the M70, everything else, including the middle screw (and the forend/barrel screw) lines up.

I have a brand new Williams one piece Stainless bottom metal that I can't use that I'd sell for less than what I paid for it if you need for your project?
PM me if interested.

Thanks for the help guys, stuck it in a pre 64 stock this PM and I theink it will work great.
Mike Allred

quote:

M54

How well does this action lend itself to a custom project? Also, they are weaker than the M/70, so what calibers are acceptable? I have an action only from a M/54 carbine in 30'06 that I got with a Savage M/99 barreled action in 250-3000.

54 and pre64 70 are of equal strength. If I am not mistaken they started with the same forgings.

I have been told by a very knowledgeable source that a number of early M70's were actually m54 actions. Also I have seen a number of M54's in 30-338, 308 Norma, 338 Win Mag and even one 300 Win Mag. Mine will be a 338-06 or a 270. Need both, and since the 270 first appeared in the 54, probably the 270.
Mike Allred

quote:

54 and pre64 70 are of equal strength. If I am not mistaken they started with the same forgings.

This action is a possibility for a future project. I probably should have just used it on my 6.5X55 Swede, but it looks rather long for the little Swede. Are these actions long enough for a 300 H&H?

A 54 can be lengthened internally to H&H specs just the same way you would do with a standard length 70, but it is not worth the trouble IMO, best to save your pennies, hunt up a 70 H&H action, and pay through the nose for it.

I modified my bottom on my 35Whelen M54 by cutting the trigger guiard off the floorplate right behind the center screwhole. Then I took a Mdl 70 steel trigger guard and cut a step in it at the front screwhole to accept the floorplate. Looks good and gets rid of the stamped bow. Doesn't open but I never really use that either. Very little inletting required at front and back of trigger guard. Harry Lawson turned me a stock using and old style Mdl 70 and it worked perfectly. He spent most of a Saturday morning turning it to really close inside dimensions. Let me have the pick of wood from his stock and sold it to me at bargain prices. He had turned over his operations and was more or less retired at the time and I suppose I caught him at a weak moment. I really like the 54. I had a Timney trigger and put a screw thru the left side of the action for a bolt stop.

Zim-
which Timney did you use for the 54? Do you have pics of the bolt stop modification? have a 54 that has had the bolt altered so may be a candidate for improving the 2-stage trigger. Thanks for the help.

The Timney was a Sportsman with no safety. The bolt stop was just a long hardened screw thru one of the existing holes for reciever sight. Just had the threads ground off the end. If I had it to do over I would open the hole to a larger diameter. Function was perfect in all respects but the screw would take a beating over time I'm sure. The Timney was an OLD unit as I built this rifle about 15yrs ago and believe I used a unit I had on hand.Don't remember having to weld up the cocking piece as you do on the new Timneys.

Appreciate the help-sounds like it should work.