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Re-barrel my Rem 700 30-06 to 25-06???
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Please help! I have asked alot of folks but nobody seems to have a straight answer.

I have a mdl 700 ADL in 30-06. Can I put a 25-06 bbl on it. As long as the threads are the same pithch I should be able to screw a 25 bbl on, right??

Does Remmington have this bbl?? Would I have to look for a premium brand bbl? Like a Shilen or similar. I'd like to keep the cost down if possibe, is a take-off bbl an option??

How much would a smith charge approx. for this job??

Thanks.
 
Posts: 82 | Location: seattle | Registered: 14 January 2003Reply With Quote
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The smith I deal with will charge you $160 plus the cost of the barrel to chamber, tread, crown, headspace and install the barrel. He will recommend that you let him install a holland recoil lug ($45), but thats up to you. You can supply the barrel or he'll get it for you. The job should be pretty straight foward, considering they both use the same case. here's a link to his his site. SKI RIFLES He's a good natured person, very easy to work with and doesn't mind answering dumb questions (I ask a lot of those.)give him a call.
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Yes, a take-off barrel is your least expensive option. It would be easy to fit, and would require no bluing or alteration to the stock channel. Some gunsmiths might charge as little as $50 for exchanging factory barrels, but that would be on the low end of the range.

You can probably find a Remington 700 .25-06 barrel in Gun List or on Auction Arms, Gunbroker, or eBay. A take-off shouldn't cost you more than about $50.

But cosider this: By the time you've found a barrel and a gunsmith and paid the shipping, etc., etc., you could probably sell your .30-06 and buy a .25-06 for less net money. Think about it.
 
Posts: 13263 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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If you want a .25 that bad consider getting out of the Remingtons anyway and buying another rifle.

Do a search here on Remingtons to find out what I mean.

Does that Remington safety lock the bolt when it's on? If it does how can you be safe when you unload an ADL? If it's not do you want a rifle that does not lock the bolt when the safety is on?
 
Posts: 5543 | Registered: 09 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Does anybody else ever get tired of all of the Remington bashing [Confused] Just change the factory trigger and be done with it.
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Texas | Registered: 20 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Pac-Nor has a pre-fit barrel option. It is all ready to go, except the headspace is long. You remove steel from the shoulder until headspace is correct. This is done in a lathe. If you are using a average corner gun plumber I think it is a better option. The barrel maker did the hard part. I got one for a M-700 in .223. It shoots in the teens.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Droptine:
Does anybody else ever get tired of all of the Remington bashing [Confused] Just change the factory trigger and be done with it.

I know what ya mean.

"What do you think of Tasco scopes?"

"They're fine, just don't use them on one of those dangerous Remingtons...".

Seems like every other thread lately gets twisted to the M700 trigger theme, no matter the original topic. It's what made me quit going to Hunt America. (Well, that and Swamp...).
 
Posts: 2629 | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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redrider---

I'll try to lift some fog for you-----

There's two things to consider when changing caliber in any rifle.
1) What size is the bolt face?

2) How long is the magazine?

Your 30-06 has a .473 bolt face and so does a 25-06. No problem.

The long M-700s are all the same. No problem.

Barrels are usually bought as "blanks". Some are sho nuff, straight taper blanks but most are contoured by the barrel maker to sporter or target weights..There are no threads on a blank and the barrel is overly long.

The gunsmith that installs the barrel threads the barrel shank to fit your action, chambers the barrel to the caliber you want, and then polishes the barrel and cuts it to finished length and crowns it. Marking and test fire and a feeding/function test finishes it.....unless it has to be blued and the stock re-bedded....

Your job is to pick what caliber, what twist, what steel, what contour and what length. Type of crown, degree of finish and such can also be specified.

There are about 15 barrel makers in the US. From makers that have been known for top quality, hand lapped, hunting rifle barrels like G. R. Douglas' XX barrels, to benchrest barrel makers like Hart, Schnieder, Shilen, Brougton and others. These guys also make hunting barrels because the BR market is extremely small. Some barrel makers specialize in one nich......John Krieger is an over the course shooter and gets a LOT of business from those shooters.

ALL of these barrel makers make barrels MUCH better than what you find on a factory rifle. The difference is in the extra work and skill it takes to make a *barrel* instead of just a *rifled tube* that's "good enough".

The very BEST barrel can be installed wrong.....a bad barrel won't shoot no matter how much care is taken in installing it.

$150 to $200 is normal for a *hunting* rifle barrel blank. Labor to install it is about the same.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by redrider:
I have a mdl 700 ADL in 30-06. Can I put a 25-06 bbl on it. As long as the threads are the same pithch I should be able to screw a 25 bbl on, right??

Does Remmington have this bbl?? ... I'd like to keep the cost down if possibe, is a take-off bbl an option??

How much would a smith charge approx. for this job??

redrider-

The 30-06 to 25-06 conversion is a very simple & straightforward job. They are both based on the same case, so very little needs done.

You can certainly screw on a take-off 25-06 barrel. HOWEVER, I'd recommend that you have a gunsmith do it for you. The actual swap is a piece of cake, but you need to check the headspace. (Very important step [Wink] ). You might get lucky & have a perfect fit the first time, or he may need to take a little off the shoulder, or deepen the chamber just a hair.

The other catch is that it is very unlikely that the sights will end up square on top, as well as the writing. If budget is a factor, take the sights off, plug the holes wherever they end up, and ignore it. Otherwise you run into more expense for the 'smith to time it, and then he'll definitely need to touch up the chamber.

Doing a take-off barrel swap is definitely the most economical way out, but if you're not completely capable, have a 'smith do it for you. He shouldn't charge much.

If you decide to go that route, try Dave at I.T. & D. Custom Gun for a barrel. 330-868-6867. He usually has a good selection of take-offs laying around. Other "rebarrellers" should have a good selection as well.

Good luck!
 
Posts: 2629 | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I just did this very thing! But it was on a model 7. I took off a .243 barrel, and installed a .308 take-off from another model 7. I did buy the recoil lug holding fixture, from Brownell's, to get it right. I already had an action wrench & bbl vise. The barrel turned about 60 degrees too far, so the name & caliber wound up on the right side, just above the stock & upside down; and the sight holes were on the bottom, more or less. Headspace was spot-on! I suppose this is because Remington rollmarks the barrels after they are fitted. One could have the barrel set back & rechambered, but it wasn't worth the extra expense to me, just so it looks right. It shoots great, and that's what I was after,,,,,,,,,Bug.
 
Posts: 353 | Location: East Texas | Registered: 22 January 2003Reply With Quote
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