Does anyone use strap wrenches to remove rifle barrels?

If so, which one do you use?

TIA,
George

I don't think I have ever seen a strap wrench that would hold tight enough. If someone does I would like to know about it also. The only thing other than a good barrel vise with alumimum inserts, is a large pipe wrench. (not to good on fine barrels)

I never used a strap wrench and my experience in removing many barrels is that it wouldn't work with the majority of barrels. On both military and commercial actions it will require a parting cut a few thousandths in front of the reciever ring to relieve the enormous pressure the barrels were screwed on with to allow a normal barrel vice and action wrench to remove it. Some of the posters have said they didn't need to do this with any barrel. I guess I just didn't have the right equipment.

I've never used a strap wrench to remove anything except an oil filter...BUT back in the 40's & 50's, very early 60's, it was not too uncommon for folks to use a "rope-wrench" to remove barrels. I've done that a few times myself.

Basically, it consists of getting a stout piece of about 3/8" rope, doubling it, wrapping it around and around the barrel right in front of the action (and over itself), until you end up with a loop at the end of the rope and on top of the barrel. Then a LONG lever is stuck in the loop and yanked on.

Coiled onto the barrel in the right direction, it is self tightening and the harder you pull, the tighter it is.

It will NOT work on really tightly fitted barrels though...the rope loop will break first. And, one has to be careful to make/use an action holder which won't allow the action to be bent or the rails crushed any amount together at all while the action resists the turning impulse of the barrel.

I really think you are better off to buy a purpose-built barrel vice and action wrench. "Shade-tree" tools often produce shade-tree results. The total cost can then be much more than the price of the right tools.

That's what I was afraid of.

Thanks,
George

One of the toughest removal jobs I have undertaken was a few aftermarket Float Tubes for and AR type upper. Some are a real bear to remove. What I have used in the past is a "chain" wrench with a bit of leather used to protect the tube. Early on I bout a strap wrench from Brownells that was advertised for this operation; it broke on the first barrel.

I can't imagine using a strap wrench on a barrel.

I've a good friend that has used strap wrenches, of his own making, for barrel removal with much success. Me, I can't tie knots that well.

We (Dad and I) sold strap wrenches in an oilfield supply business. I had my barrel removal stuff set up there and had a barrel to remove. I happened to look over and see the strap wrench hanging on the shelf and went to give it a try. Worthless... Barrel vice and action wrench (priceless).

Actually the only barrels that routinely need relieved to remove are some US Model 1917 Enfields as they were intalled by machine and installed very tight. They can be removed without relieving but there is a good chance the receiver ring will crack in the process.

All other tight removals are usually military barrels that have been on a long time compounded with getting hot, being in the elements, and just plain rusting. Kroil is your friend here. Squirt Kroil anywhere you have a joint, hole or etc and let it work a day.

I have a 4 ft "persuader" that I sometimes used to use, but now just give a sharp rap on the handle of the Brownell's action wrench with a medium weight ball peen hammer.

ETA: The barrel vice is the key to holding the barrel tight enough. I have a homemade barrel vice that is 1-1/8" thick and uses aluminum bushings. It is made from an old forklift counterweight.

quote:

Originally posted by Masterifleman:
I never used a strap wrench and my experience in removing many barrels is that it wouldn't work with the majority of barrels. On both military and commercial actions it will require a parting cut a few thousandths in front of the reciever ring to relieve the enormous pressure the barrels were screwed on with to allow a normal barrel vice and action wrench to remove it. Some of the posters have said they didn't need to do this with any barrel. I guess I just didn't have the right equipment.

I think it was Speer #9 Reloading manual, in the front discussion area, that brought to my attention that there were target shooters with the expensive guns and equally expensive barrels that were made so that they were "finger tight" and could be put in and taken out with the fingers, EXCEPT rifling was calculated to twist the barrel in, not out (Ghee why???) and after much firing a "strap wrench" was needed to help the "fingers..."

Good enough for the "one hole boys" I cannot argue, but not the way most guns made. I discussed this with my favorite gunsmith and he didn't see the need... So you want any barrel threaded a bit "looser" ... just don't let the rifling twist unscrew it... (ha, ha) enjoy, luck