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Ruger #1B trigger
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My Ruger #1 has two adjustment screws in the trigger, the front one is missing all together the rear one, what is it doing. Since the trigger breaks at 33oz I don't want to touch any thing. I assume the rear screw is the trigger stop or backlash adjustment? Please advise if I should get a new front screw? This is a used rifle Ser# 130-xxxxx.
Fred M.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
posted
What the screrws do depends on when your rifle was made - somewhere along the line, they changed the design of the trigger mechanism to where the screws in the current No. 1 triggers don't seem to do anything at all!! IF it's working to your satisfaction NOW, leave it alone!!
 
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Thanks for the reply.
From what I understand the new # 1b has only one screw I am not sure but the one screw started with the prefix # 133-XXXX mine is a 130-XXXXx an earlier model series and has two screws which supposed to be an adjustable trigger system. With the one screw missing it is obviouky not adjustable anymore. No I am not changing the settings since that trigger weight is pretty good, I like 24oz but I can live with 33oz. Fred M.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Agree, if you're happy with it leave it alone.

The two screws you can see without removing the buttstock are supposed to be weight of pull and over-travel adjustments but, as was said, they don't do much of anything. The adjustment missing from the newer (lawyer inspired) models is the seer engagement screw. It is accessed by removing the butt-stock and is the one that (when correctly adjusted) makes the ruger #1 and #3 trigger one of the best there is.
I installed a Moyers (from Brownell's) on my later model #1B. It's basically a "knockoff" of the origional Ruger fully adjustable trigger. It works great and is well worth the $53 and about an hours work.

Jon
 
Posts: 490 | Registered: 15 March 2004Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
posted
As a matter of interest, I put a Canjar single-set on one of my No.1's. It is easily adjusted, and has a great letoff UNSET, which is the way I use it. When hunting, particulkarly in very cold weather, I'm afreaid to try to set it, since a fumble with the thing could cause the rifle to fire before you want it to. However, I love double-sets as hunting triggers. I don't believe a double-set can be installed on a nO. 1 due to the design of the triggerguard/operating lever. I see even Heym uses a single-set on their version of the No. 1.
 
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eldeguello
Thanks for the reply. I had a Canjar single set trigger once on a Mauser, and used it like you did. Setting it was not that easy, there was not much room behind the trigger. Also the trigger worked perfect without setting it.

The way I have my trigger set up right now is fine for hunting and casual shooting from a bench. Bill Leeper my gunsmith tells me there is no problem getting the Ruger #1 trigger down to 24oz. That weight I really like.

If the Moyer trigger is like the Ruger then there is not much use changing it, since the one I have is adjustable like the Moyer?

A double set trigger is fine but no great shakes trying to use it unset and is not too simple to unset. Most people just open the bolt. On a single shot I guess you have to use two fingers?

Accuracy wise there are two hammer blows setting up double the vibration. Not something you would want on a Benchrest rifle. A good single stage trigger is pretty hard to beat. Man do I love my Jewell triggers.

What do you think of that Moulds Speed Lock Hammer?

Fred M.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
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Quote:

A double set trigger is fine but no great shakes trying to use it unset and is not too simple to unset. Most people just open the bolt. On a single shot I guess you have to use two fingers?



Accuracy wise there are two hammer blows setting up double the vibration. Not something you would want on a Benchrest rifle. A good single stage trigger is pretty hard to beat. Man do I love my Jewell triggers.



What do you think of that Moulds Speed Lock Hammer?






You're right that most DST's have a horrendous pull unset! And unsetting them with a round in the chamber requires two fingers if the safety is off. If the safety is on, you can just touch it "off", but of course it makes a noise.



I am not familiar with the Moulds Speed Lock Hammer



This group was shot with a Mauser actioned 6mm/284 with Canjar SST and leupold 7.5 X fixed-power scope. Five shot @ 100 yards, Sierra 100-grain bullet, 53.5 grains of H4831. MV 3400 FPS (26" Douglas Premium-grade bbl)
 
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Well I found out about the front trigger screw, which I thought was lost but after another close look I found it to be there, but quite far down.

What it does is stop the trigger just after breaking. I turned it all the way in and the trigger wont move. While pulling on the trigger with the trigger scale I turned the screw out until the trigger broke plus another 1/4 turn. Works great.

By the way my Jewell triggers adjust the same way, they come with a complete manual how to adjust them. You don't have to frigg around trying to figure out how to adjust them

The rear screw adjusts the pull weight from 33 to 40 oz with a 1/2 turn. A 1/2 turn back and we are at 33 oz again. Now I know. According to Ruger's serial numbers data the rifle left the factory 1976.

Could not find out when the adjustable trigger was dicontinued. Fred M.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Canada | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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