All,

I was wondering about the practicalities of converting the standard FN bottom metal with the detachable floorplate to a hinged variety.

I seem to recall seeing some pics/discussion of this, but could not find it.

The question is two fold, I suppose.

A. Realizing that anything can be done at a cost, is it reasonably feasible from an effort perspective?

B. Is is generally cost prohibitive for a consumer (non-machinist/gunsmith) to go this route, and to stick with something that is commercially available?

Any thoughts or opinions..?

TIA

Bob

I have done it in the past but would not do it again. Way too much work laborwise to be cost effective.

If you do it yourself and screw it up you could always buy the bottom metal anyway.


Hope Don doesn't mind. I bought one of his bottom levers but have not converted one myself.

http://www.mausercentral.com/howtotips.htm

If you do it you would have to put a release button in the triggerguard or use a lever on the floorplate. You would also have to mill out a spot for the floorplate pivot to rest and then drill a hole for the pin that holds it in place.

Or you can cut the triggerguard off and weld on a new one such as the ones shown in the photo and then put on a straddle floorplate such as the one in the photo.

I've done several of them, but as Jim Kobe said earlier it's not cost effective unless you just have an odd guard and are trying to match the inletting or you just want a project. Here's one i did for a friend, the stock was inlet for the swede guard which is wider, so going commercial wasn't an option.
Don

It can be done various ways. The best way is if you had a mill and your own mig welder, but you can do it all with a file or a dremel tool and a file. You need to weld a piece of key stock to the front/bottom of the floorplate for a hinge and mill/grind/file to shape. Then you need to mill/grind/file out a recess for that part into the forward tang of the trigger guard assembly. The release can be as simple as removing the existing release mechanism and welding those openings up and then drilling a 1/4" hole in an angle similar to a model 70 Winchester's release button, and then making a release button from a 1/4" rod. You mill/grind/file half way through the front portion of the rod; this serves two functions, one is to provide a stop for the cross roll pin to retain the spring loaded rod into the front of the guard bow and it also is the surface that holds the floorplate closed. You may or may not need to bevel the front for it to work smoothly.

Okay, you guys have convinced me that it is not worth the effort. I suppose I need to decide whether or not I can live with the detachable floorplate or not. I really didn't want to spend big bucks on decent hinged bottom metal, so my options are kinds limited.

By the way, nice work Don! I wish i had half your talent!

Bob

quote:

Okay, you guys have convinced me that it is not worth the effort.

I think it depends on how nice of a rifle you want and how long you are going to keep it.
It certainly would be worth the effort if you are going to keep the gun for a long time and you want something nicer than what you already have.

I've done a few where I make a hinge plate which is welded or silver soldered to the floorplate. I mill a slot for the pin. The original FN release button is retained. In use, the button is pushed and the plate pushed to the rear as always (the slot in the hinge allows it to move rearward)then pivoted down on the hinge. It's a decent system and reasonably easy to do. Sorry, I don't have any pictures. Regards, Bill

quote:

Originally posted by Don Markey:
I've done several of them, but as Jim Kobe said earlier it's not cost effective unless you just have an odd guard and are trying to match the inletting or you just want a project. Here's one i did for a friend, the stock was inlet for the swede guard which is wider, so going commercial wasn't an option.
Don

I like this option best! That looks nice Don.

Terry

A couple of 1903 hinged jobs in my shop now. One is a straddle adapted from a Win 70 and the other is like the sliding Mauser example mentioned in another post but not shown. The hinge tongue has an elongated slot for the hinge pin, allowing the floorplate to slide to the rear when the latch button is pressed hard enough to move the spring-loaded latch. The button is captive within the floorplate and will be engraved or checkered, depending. I apologize for the unpolished appearance but these are still under construction.
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by TC1:

I like this option best! That looks nice Don.

Terry

Thanks, Terry that one I had to make the floorplate from scratch. Did'nt turn out too bad I did some miscalculations when I bought the bar stock and it didn't end up being thick enough to make the boss around the lever hole to keep it from turning backwards,so I had to do that with the latch.
Don

quote:

Originally posted by J.D.Steele:

A couple of 1903 hinged jobs in my shop now. One is a straddle adapted from a Win 70 and the other is like the sliding Mauser example mentioned in another post but not shown. The hinge tongue has an elongated slot for the hinge pin, allowing the floorplate to slide to the rear when the latch button is pressed hard enough to move the spring-loaded latch. The button is captive within the floorplate and will be engraved or checkered, depending. I apologize for the unpolished appearance but these are still under construction.
Regards, Joe

Hard to tell from the pic, did you have to build up the front of the bow do make enough room for the latch on the one with the in-the-bow release?
Don

I wonder if it would be possible to buy complete 1909 Argentine magazine and guard bottom metal, or late/current commercial hinged bottom metal, and file and fiddle with it to fit the existing inletting.

Yes Don, I had to add a small amount (~1/16") to the bottom, to mate up with the slightly-short M70 straddle plate. If I was a better welder I might have added more filler up higher so that I could use a larger hinge pin and a longer latch lever. I may yet do that anyway, before it's all over.



Regards, Joe