I'm going to be cleaning up the checkering on some 1970s vintage Sako stocks.

Is this Ullman single row 90 degree checkering tool a good tool for the job?



Is this three row safety cutter a good idea for continuing the cleanup?

Clean the checkering with a suede brush and see what you got first.

For re-cutting checkering use a single point cutter. Make it cut on the pull. You will need a checkering cradle. Practice on old stocks first. It will not go well until you gain some skills.

Your multi line cutter is good in most places if it is the same LPI as the checkering but single is perfect anywhere. Single with a guide edge is perfect if it is the right LPI.

Don't need a checkering cradle for this. Have a bright light on a low angle to cast good shadows. Go slow and use magnifier glasses or similar. It's a piece of cake.
If you have a steeper/narrower (65 deg - 75deg, like the ones you have pictured) for your first pass it helps but not necessary.

Thanks very much. I will get a single blade pull tool for much of the work. And also get an 18 lpi tool with one training wheel, and one live blade.

Good advice about magnification. I have one that fits around my forehead with a 20x lens in front of my master eye.

My husband "crf" asked me to weigh in on this as checkering is my profession. I always use a single line tool for re-cutting as it would be a rare coincidence if any spacing tool matched up perfectly with existing checkering unless it was the actual tool used originally. I use a push tool [5/8 inch as provided by Ullman] for the body of the checkering and find the smaller 3/16 inch pull tool indispensible for the ends of the lines adjoining the borders or outlines.

In almost all cases I would not bother with anything but a 90 degree cutter for re-checkering. The brand new carbide cutters are sometimes so aggresive that it takes a while to break them in. They tend to dig in and catch, sending your cutter into the wrong area, ugh. Try scratching some on a scrap of wood to break them in and become accustomed to the feel.

As mentioned previously sometimes old checkering can be improved sufficiently by simply cleaning out the old oil, dirt etc. with some mineral spirits on a brush, I like soft toothbrushes for this. If previously used on teeth run 'em through the dishwasher first. They can also be used to apply a light coat of penetrating stock finish to the newly re-checkered panels. I use Daly's Ben-Matte brushed in well to avoid shiny accumulation in the bottom of the grooves. It doesn't take very much finish.

I would not try it w/o a cradle, for security and because I like to brace the tool with my off hand sometimes. However I know many people can turn out decent work w/o one.

I could go on for pages, sorry if this seems nit-picky-- but that is what checkering is all about! Good luck, Kathy F.

Thank you Kathi! Your input is valued, and makes sense from viewing at any angle. I did notice that some of the original lines got wavy in places. If you don't mind, I may contact you if I have any specific questions when I dive in. I have seen pictures of your work. It is truly exquisite.

Thanks for sharing your hard won wisdom.

Yep..a new carbide cutters can be real "jumpity" and "snaggy" I use a piece of oak and really work It over. Kinda the same idea as with a new band saw blade.

Never saw a wobbly line on Kathy's finished work and she has the disadvantage of symmetry that's gotta be all over the map when contracting to checker other people's stocks.

Frankly, I don't see how she does it without telling some that life is too short to work on crap like this

I have a rejected Weatherby stock blank to break the checking tool in. Finally found a use for it.

....thanks Duane for the comments, you're very kind.

lawndart--yes feel free to contact me with your questions via pm. Going over wavy lines when recheckering, it is usually possible to improve them quite a bit just by going straighter. But, do not go deeper when attempting this or you will be digging a hole both literally and figuratively!

good luck, kf

EzeLap fine diamond to reduce the cutter from bitting into the wood. Lawndart, remember contact with you about 12 yrs back about dust. Try to keep dust away with the air system and a mask. If you use air directly on the lines it will keep the lines clear and you can see much better with having to blow the air away or stop to brush the dust away. I started using carbide cutters over 30 yrs ago and would never go back to the plain steel cutters. Resharpen these tools as shown and you will never need to buy new again.

Thanks Les. I will heed your advice and admonitions. I hope your red cedar allergy is better, and that you are enjoying retirement (as I am).