There seems to be two schools of though when it comes to bedding.
One is the recoil lug is taped and left as a slack fit in the bedding the other seems to be that the recoil lug is a precise fit in the bedding..

I would normally just put some release agent on the lug and bed it as tight as possible,but I watched a video on ballisticstudies.com whereby he used tape around the lug giving a slack fit.
I was under the impression that there should be no movement at all in the action once bedded.
any thoughts

regards
Griff

quote:

Originally posted by griff:
There seems to be two schools of though when it comes to bedding.
One is the recoil lug is taped and left as a slack fit in the bedding the other seems to be that the recoil lug is a precise fit in the bedding..

I would normally just put some release agent on the lug and bed it as tight as possible,but I watched a video on ballisticstudies.com whereby he used tape around the lug giving a slack fit.
I was under the impression that there should be no movement at all in the action once bedded.
any thoughts

regards
Griff

There would be no point in bedding the recoil lug totally "slack".

I tape the front, bottom & sides of the recoil lug to allow the lug to be drawn down into the bedding W/the rear surface tight against the bedding.

On a Mauser or other irregularly shaped receiver, I also tape the intermediate area behind the front receiver ring to the front edge of the rear bridge bedding the rear bridge tight W/several layers of tape on the rear of the tang to prevent wood splitting from recoil.

I bed the front ring & 1st 3" of barrel tight W/the rest of the barrel free floated via .030" of pattern maker's wax & tape on the tube when bedding the channel.

Partial tape like he said -- mighty hard to get out of the stock with no tape...

quote:

I tape the front, bottom & sides of the recoil lug to allow the lug to be drawn down into the bedding W/the rear surface tight against the bedding.

Me too!

The bench rest rifles are a complete glue in ( takes a heat gun to get them out ).


.

You can do it both ways. On those receivers with separate recoil lugs like the Remington 700, if I'm taping anything it'll be the bottom of the lug so it doesn't make contact and interfere with the seating of the receiver. On those actions like the Weatherby Mk V and Vanguard, where the action screw enters the lug itself, then you want full contact on the bottom of the lug since it is an anchor point.

Taping the sides and the front of the lug makes removal from the stock easier, but it is not necessary.

quote:

I tape the front, bottom & sides of the recoil lug to allow the lug to be drawn down into the bedding W/the rear surface tight against the bedding.

Me too

quote:

I tape the front, bottom & sides of the recoil lug to allow the lug to be drawn down into the bedding W/the rear surface tight against the bedding.

I also allow a little slack behind the Rear Tang to allow for heat expansion.

quote:

Originally posted by larrys01:

quote:

I tape the front, bottom & sides of the recoil lug to allow the lug to be drawn down into the bedding W/the rear surface tight against the bedding.

I also allow a little slack behind the Rear Tang to allow for heat expansion.

In my case it's to allow for recoil movement.
Regards, Joe

quote:

I also allow a little slack behind the Rear Tang to allow for heat expansion.

I have solved alot of "the rifle wont group" problems for guys by doing this as well.