How hard is it to remove a barrel from a 1960's - 1970's Marlin bolt action 22?

How do you do it? Drive out the pin and then how to remove the barrel?

Pretty easy to get off but a bit tougher to get back on straight, but not too tough.

Do you drive it out from the rear with a brass drift or what?

I assumed freezing the barrel and warming the receiver would make reassembly a snap? Right or wrong?

Sure, a brass drift is a good way. Never had to use temp to get them back together, just line them up and gentle taps to put it back..

There's a 'cartridge guide spring' that sits over the chamber at 12 o'clock in the Mod80 Marlin and it's variations. Don't slam a drift or punch against the breech end of the bbl w/o first planning for that spring and a cut-out in your punch to avoid smashing it flat.

MAny MArlins already have that guide spring broken off or bent, but they usually don't feed worth spit if it's missing.

Get a replacement if you need one for reassembly if it's already damaged or broken. If it's OK, it can be re-used. It is held in place by the assembled bbl/recvr sitting in a small cutt out in the bbl shank.. CArefully inserted in that cut out when you replace the bbl back into the recv'r.

There is a cross pin holding the bbl and rcvr together on the bottom of the recvr. Drive that out first of course..
The bbl is pressed into the recvr and they can be in quite tight resisting the normal hammer & punch method of separation.
Too much batterring against the breech end even with a large faced brass drift can start to deform the chamber edge and extractor cuts.

Some will come right apart with little effort.,,others will seem like they're together w/ locktite.
We had a small press at the factory Repair Dept. to disassemble these with a simple crank wheel to push the bbl from the recvr.

Any I've worked on myself since the factory days, I've made the fit betw the bbl and recvr a nice gentle tap fit so as not to require bashing the two parts together. The design has been around since the early 1930's in a MArlin bolt .22 rifle so there are plenty of them out there.

It's a good idea to mark an index line on the bottom of the recvr and the bbl before disassembly. It makes lining up the two a little easier when reassembly time comes. Once the two are pushed back together, it's almost impossible to make any radial adj to line up for the cross pin or the get the guide spring exactly correct on top. Index lines while not perfect help a lot and are better than a good guess. and doing the whole thing over again.

...To think of the number of these & M60 semi autos we used to disassemble, strip for parts and then crush &throw the recv's away because they were pre-68 mfg and were not ser#'d. Guns that came in on factory warranty from big box stores mainly and the customers had just been given a new gun. It was now 1970 and the 22's needed to be ser#'d. So many of these warrenty repair guns had no ser# being pre68 mfg and could not go back out.
For a short time we hand stamped a ser# on them. Then we stripped them for parts & destroyed the frame. Then later they decided it was a waste of time so when the unser#'d warrenty exchanged guns came in, they mearly destroyed the entire rifle. What a waste but that was dollars and cents to them..

I've removed a few 22 rifle barrels that were pressed into the receiver, pretty much all said above but if using a brass drift, counter bore the face of the drift slightly so the chamber mouth in the barrel doesn't get peened. Most drifts by nature of their use end up slightly or heavily (depending on use) convexed on their face. Don't want to be driving the barrel out and then find a round won't chamber later.

quote:

So many of these warrenty repair guns had no ser# being pre68 mfg and could not go back out.

Sounds like Marlin went over board in kissing the governments ass.

There is nothing in GCA68 that says non serial numbered guns needed to be destroyed.

They are still legal to own sell or trade.

There is no requirement for them to destroy those rifles; they just did it. If it didn't leave the factory with a SN, it doesn't need one now.

Marlin was taking in those particular rifles on a warranty-exchange and the customer had received a new rifle already.

The old rifles were being rebuilt, refinished, re-packaged and then resold as 'new'.
The ones in the bunch that were pre-68 mfg had no ser# on them.(and there were a lot of them as this was only 1971)
BATF said to be able to repackage and resell as 'new', the rifles would now need a ser# per GCA68.

( You are correct in that if the guns were sold as USED firearms in 1971 they would have been as legal w/o the ser# as they are today, but they would be sold as NEW firearms, now w/a ser#.)

Marlin was selling only NEW rifles in 1971,,so they were required to be ser#'d.


Any of the pre-68/no ser# rifles that came in for repair from an individual customer were treated just like any other repair. The rifle was repaired and returned,,no issue about the ser# or not having one.

It was only the warranty/full exchange rifles from retailers w/o ser# that eventually got destroyed.

Sorry if I didn't explain better.

quote:

Originally posted by airgun1:
Do you drive it out from the rear with a brass drift or what?

I assumed freezing the barrel and warming the receiver would make reassembly a snap? Right or wrong?

Don't just beat the barrel out of the receiver, the chamber edge can be peened in worse than dry-firing.
Make the drift such it doesn't bear on the edge of the chamber or the cartridge guide spring (never mind how I found out).
The drift I made is counterbored so its face doesn't touch the edge of the chamber and has a slot for the cartridge guide spring.

I think the next time I get one in for a barrel swap I am going to build a press similar to the one that I use to pull off Norinco M305 sights. Where it clamps around the barrel I am going to cut the hole oversized in the press and then build a series of steel inserts with shoulders to hold them in the press. That way I can quickly make an insert for any barrel size that I need on the lathe. Then just run an aluminum or steel rod with a center hole in the back down the receiver body and press the barrels out with no muss, fuss or hammering.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LUH0kfXSws

Would these same procedures apply to the XT-22 with its clip magazine? Got one a few
years ago in which the barrel was installed at the factory a few degrees off making it
impossible to tighten the front stock screw without pulling barrel and stock together on one
side. (Yes, I sent it in and Marlington did nothing to address the issue.)