I'm putting a new stock on my wifes 94 winchester. I have been putting lipstick on the metal and removing wood where there is contact,until 100 % contact. The fore end is done and working on the butt.
Lipstick is not a good product,It's messy and dryes fast.Is there another product that will work better? I have a 99 savage to do next. Thanks

Carbon black. Simply soot from a candle

Any of those little oil burning candles work as well. Pull the wick up and they really smoke

Jerrow's Inletting Black.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewp...productnumber=128834

I like Jerrows but use very sparingly. I spread it around in a bowl with my brush then apply otherwise it's to thick.

I use a small alcohol lamp with kerosene or lamp oil (tiki lamp, but stay away from citronella). Works great and is cheap.

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Jerrow's Inletting Black.

Good stuff, I thin mine with a drop or two with bore cleaner. I bought the gold color also and like it as it sticks out like a sore thumb.

somebody told me once graphite and motor oil mixed together (iirc).

I have the inletting black, but have only ever partially inletted a trigger guard so won't speak from experience, just what I have cause easy to buy and I shouldn't be trusted with fire.

Red

Thanks for the answers. I do have some small oil lamps so I'll try that first.

I prefer to use Prussian Blue for fitting wood and metal. You can get it from gunsmithing catalogs, tool catalogs, or at auto parts stores.

Many things work, so find the one you like best. i smoke in metal on metal joints. works best for me. have done small and touch-up wood to metal with smoke and it worked well.

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Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
I prefer to use Prussian Blue for fitting wood and metal. You can get it from gunsmithing catalogs, tool catalogs, or at auto parts stores.

Many things work, so find the one you like best. i smoke in metal on metal joints. works best for me. have done small and touch-up wood to metal with smoke and it worked well.

I use the Jerrow's but have wondered about the smoking of parts. If used inside the shop, doesn't it leave a lot of residue around to stick to things?

Jim

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If used inside the shop, doesn't it leave a lot of residue around to stick to things?

Jim of course I don't do even a fraction of what you do. I use the little oil candles withe the knob to adjust the wick. Quick turn out causes smoke. Quick turn back nice clean flame. I neve used Jerrows. Some of the stuff and old smith gave me would stain the wood if left on for any period of time. So I went to smoke.

quote:

I use the Jerrow's but have wondered about the smoking of parts. If used inside the shop, doesn't it leave a lot of residue around to stick to things?

I have a very small shop and do not find a lot of residue. I light the alcohol burner for use and shut it off after smoking the parts for fitting. It really does not take much to mark the metal and wood. If left to run it would create some residue in addition to being a fire hazard.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
I prefer to use Prussian Blue for fitting wood and metal. You can get it from gunsmithing catalogs, tool catalogs, or at auto parts stores.

Many things work, so find the one you like best. i smoke in metal on metal joints. works best for me. have done small and touch-up wood to metal with smoke and it worked well.

I use the Jerrow's but have wondered about the smoking of parts. If used inside the shop, doesn't it leave a lot of residue around to stick to things?

Jim

I use an alcohol lamp as well, burning kerosene. It has never been a problem. And I have burned them for many, many hours smoking metal parts in. I do drop the wick down between smokings. it takes no time to do it, so it saves kerosene and does definitely reduce soot emitted into the general shop.

Jack Rowe, in his colorful way, had a lot to say about soot from oil/kerosene (he has been here long enough to not say "parrafin" i guess) and the soot it emits in his shop.