I have a couple of Ruger 77s, the MK2 All Weather.

I would like to know if, for travelling purposes, I disassemble the rifle, how much will accuracy suffer ( I mean taking apart action from stock, that's it)

And does anybody know of a good way to do this in an "repeatble" fashion"

Tks!

quote:

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Originally posted by Gustavo:
I have a couple of Ruger 77s, the MK2 All Weather.

I would like to know if, for travelling purposes, I disassemble the rifle, how much will accuracy suffer ( I mean taking apart action from stock, that's it)

And does anybody know of a good way to do this in an "repeatble" fashion"

Tks!

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Gustavo...It is up to the bedding on the individual gun IN MOST CASES....a test is the ONLY way to find out for sure with your gun....a INCH LB torque wrench will work on a solidly bedded with pillars,stock...the pillars keep the wood/fiberglass stock from crushing and causing different stress in the gun....without pillars and torque wrench I wouldn't bet on most guns staying on target for an important hunt....also the climate change/humidity will effect a wooden stock if it is not glassed and sealed well.....this is from reading gun rags and a few trials with various guns of mine and others at training sessions with bolt guns....good luck and good shooting!!!

Tks Bigdaddytacp!

The Rugers are stocked with synthetics, do you think the same criteria applies as in wood ?

Gustavo

Gustavo~
Most of my plastic guns go back to zero after they've been out of the stock and put back. They are all glass bedded. I use a torque wrench and set the torque to the same 40 in/lbs every time. Every now and then one or two of the first 5 shots after reassembly doesn't go as expected but I've never been able to attribute it to pulling it out of the stock.

If they are glass bedded where the action goes back exactly and it's torqued consistently you should have no problem. I put the screws in loosely then rap the butt on the floor to settle the action before I finally torque it. If they aren't bedded then it's not likely they'll end up the same. It might therefore take as much as 20 rounds or so before it settles down.

[This message has been edited by Bob338 (edited 10-14-2001).]

I have a Ruger like yours, and this one shoots the same (before and after removing the stock). I don't use a torque wrench to tighten the stock screws, but instead follow the instructions in the owner's manual. I imagine a torque wrench would be a good idea, but keep in mind that the middle screw should not be tightened much.

The rifle I have is a .338 Winchester Magnum; I hunt moose with it, so I don't worry too much on minor accuracy differences at the range. I have removed the scope (with the rings attached to it), and every time it shoots the same as before.

[This message has been edited by Ray, Alaska (edited 10-14-2001).]

First of all, tks for the good answers!

Ray, could you explain me the recommended procedure ?

Also, my rifles are in out-of-the-box condition, so no beedding applied.

I really care about accuracy, becuase I hace it (tks God!) and since I spent many $$ developing handloads, I would like to keep it as possible.

If I use a torque wrench, how much presure should be applied to a Ruger ? there is any factory guideline ?

How can I know the present setting, that is before disassembling ?

Tks a lot!

I bough my rifle in 1992, and the front page of the manual has the number "KD/3-91." A assume that number is a date. The manual does not have torque values, except as follows on page 12:

4d. "Install floor plate hinge assembly and FIRMLY tighten screw (this screw is angled and draws the barrel-action assembly into the bedding surface of the stock)."

4e. "Tighten the two trigger guard screws as follows: Do not tighten one screw all the way and then tighten the other. Instead, alternately tighten each one-a partial turn at a time-so that the screws will be tightened equally until both are snugly tightened."
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As you can tell, the front screw (floor plate hinge screw) should be very tight. Before you begin the tightening sequence, make sure that all the screws are loose (hand tightened a few threads). Then place the rifle with the stock's recoil pad on a table, barrel pointing up. Now tighten the front screw. The barrel does not have to be pointing up once you tighten the front screw. Keep in mind that the middle screw could put too much pressure on the action (below the bolt) if overtightened. The front screw should be very tight, the rear screw tight, and the middle screw not as tight as the rear screw.

Look somewhere in your manual for the instructions. If you don't have a manual/parts breakdown, contact Ruger and they will mail you one free of charge.

Gustavo,

I don't know on the Ruger, but a "standard" torque for the front action screw on an unbedded Winchester or Remington rifle would be 25 in-lbs. I would put 25 on the front 15 on the back and just snug the center screw.

If the rifle is not bedded it might not return to zero, but you are likely OK since it is synthetic. You do need to test it several times, letting the barrel cool off completely each time before re-assembling.

Don