If so how did you like/dislike it? Thanks.

Roger,

I have used it, but I am not a fan. I like Tru-Oil a little better, but not a whole lot more.

There is a certain romance associated with the old oil finishes, but there are certainly better products on the market these days.

How's your .338 project coming along?

Steve

Roger, I have exactly the opposite experience than Steve. I live in Grants, New Mexico, where it is a whole bunch drier (atmospherewise), so that may have something to do with it. I have finished three rifles with the GB Lindspeed Oil, one a Ruger Mark II, a CZ 550 Full Stock and a CZ 550 American, all in 7x57mm Mauser. I found that if I take my time with the project, get all the old finish off, completely, apply a thin coat with my finger, let it dry a day or two, apply another, let it dry, take 0000 steel wool and take the thing back to bare wood and repeat this process at least seven times, the finish is absolutely beautiful. It is a high gloss finish. You have to let the final coats dry completely (about a month) and then apply some good gunstock wax. In my neck of the woods dust is one hell of a problem. I have solved this to a large degree by applying the oil about two feet from my gun cabinet, which I dusted completely with Endust, or something like that. After applying a coat, without even turning my feet, I turn my upper body, place the stock in the case, close the door and use masking tape to tape off all cracks around the door so the inside is as dust-tight as possible. Once completely dry, the stuff gives me a very durable finish. Make darn sure you apply the oil to areas not seen on the outside of the stock, like in the action area, the tang area, the barrel channel and even under the buttpad or plate, depending on what rifle you have. Any place there is a possibility of getting moisture into the stock, cover it with the oil. If you have to repair a ding, or something like that, you have to remove the wax completely from the ding area, steam out the ding, steel-wool any burrs, and re-apply finish til you get the desired depth, then put wax back on. If you don't remove the wax well back from the ding the finish will come out smokey looking. I have not tried it yet, but am told that I can use Rottenstone to bring the finish down to a dull luster finish. Feel free to contact me if you want Roger and I will give you answers to any additional questions you may have.

Thanks Thomas, I am still trying to decide. I have ordered some Tung oil from realmilkpaint.com. I will try some on a piece of wood.

I put Linspeed on one side of a block of pine and Tru-Oil on the other. The Tru-Oil is hard to the touch while the Linspeed is "pliable". It will not take a fingerprint but it has a tacky feel to it. I am putting several coats of each on to see how it works.

Roger: I have found that with any rifle I re-finished with GB Lindspeed, you have to let the stuff dry for at least 24 hours before applying another coat and on the final coats (I have 14 coats total on my CZ 550 American, with 12 of them steel-wooled back to bear wood and the last two, very thin coats, left to dry)it takes up to a month to fully dry before it does not feel tacky to the touch. I just like the stuff and if applied properly, it gives a tough finish. Tom

I have used both GB and Tru-Oil. I like the GB better in a dry climate, like New Mexico, since you have a longer working time to actually hand-rub it into the wood before it gets real tacky. But in a humid climate, Tru-Oil dries more thoroughly in a reasonable length of time (overnight), but requires more work to get it applied smoothly before it becomes too tacky to rub in well. Plain boiled linseed oil is easier to hand-rub in than either GB or Tru-Oil, but it takes forever to build up a good finish using it!! A couple of months!!

True Oil is tung and Linspeed is linseed, that's the only real difference in the two. Both have added dryers and they are equally as good if applied properly...both are good finishes and both can be cut back to a egg shell finish.....

All of todays finishes are good, the difference is in the applicator..

Yesterdays old Spar Varnish is still a good finish when properly applied...and it can used in conjunction with Linseed and Jap dryers for a real nice finish.

I have used both Linspeed and TruOil. I started w/ Linspeed in the 60's and about 1990 used some TruOil. Both are excellent. I usually finish by rubbing with 0000 steelwool and water to give satin finish. I have rifles that I did over 35 yrs ago and they look like they were just done. The stuff goes hard after opening in about a few years time. That's why it comes in small bottles. I know of a stock refinisher who places marbles in the empty space to reduce air space thus reducing drying up effect. Mike in OR

The stuff goes hard in about a couple of months..the marble trick sucks as the yellow crud surrounds the marbles and screws up the finish..Another gun writers trick that made since to him but does not work...but the stuff is cheap enough that it's no big deal.

I have used both and can't see a lot of difference. I hunt where it is usually pretty dry so don't know how either would behave in a really damp environment. I used Pilkington's oil (from Brownell's)on the last couple of Winchesters I refinished and like it, but it is a lot more work.
C.G.B.

Like Ray said Linspeed and Tru Oil are great finishes it just depends on the applicator.

To prevent either one from drying up or forming a dry skin on top, simply screw the lid on tight and store upside down.

I've used GB Linspeed and TruOil a lot over the years but my current favorite is Pro-custom. It does not store well once opened if there is much air in the can (a large container compared to the others). I mix a new can well and then transfer it into several smaller containers filled to the brim. These are stored sealed tightly in a dark and cool place. They have held for up to a year that way. Left in the can the solids start to oxidize and clump up and they can't be remixed. You end up with a can full of curds with the solvent on top that no longer carries any oil solids. I always broke my Linspeed and Tru oil into smaller containers as well and as long as the container was airtight and full there was no problem keeping it fresh.