I own a savage model 12fv short action 22-250 and am going to get a replacement barrel from either pac-nor or Sharp shooter supply(douglas). I want to set up a switch barrel rifle for long range local competition and messing around. Anyway this new barrel will be chambered in .260 remington. I am planning on buying the barrel nut wrench from Brownells i think, it's the one that has the square for a tork wrench in it. And i am going to make some sort of barrel/action wrench. I WAS REALLY JUST WONDERING IF THE PROCESS OF SWITCHING BARRELS ON A SAVAGE IS COMPLICATED OR IF ANYONE HAS RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS PERFORMING THIS OPERATION. I PLAN ON SWITCHING BACK AND FORTH FROM 22-250 TO 260 QUITE OFTEN AND WAS WONDERING WHAT PEOPLE HAVE RUN INTO DOING THIS TYPE OF THING. THANX IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR COMMENTS/SUGGESTIONS.

Hey Neighbor,
The Savage is the best way to go if you want to do switch barrels. The barrels I have seen from Sharp Shooter are good and as you said, made by Douglas. You might have to change the follower also but try the original first. Regards,

Ol' John

The biggest problem I encountered was getting the original barrel nut loose. Its a piece of cake after that. I use new cases as headspace guages and set up the dies off them at the same time. When you snug the nut back up it creates headspace. SSS has the wrenches as well so when you order a barrel you can ship it in the same box.

i got 2 barrels for christmas and finally got all the tools a week or so ago like he said the hardest part is breaking it loose the first time. i had iit in a barrel vise with midways action wrench and midways barrel nut wrench it too has the 1/2 drive square in it to brake it loose i had a 1/2'' ratchet and atached to that a 15'' cresent wrench.takes a hole 5-10 minutes to do. also check front scope mount front screw to see how far it goes into the threads i back mine out some before i screw action off. jason

The problem I've had with the 110 as a switch barrel is returning the barrel to the precise fit. I'm guessing that using a barrel nut to headspace is probably not the most precise way to return the barrel to the same fit each time it is installed. Afterall, there is some difference between "go" and "no-go". There may be a way around this, but probably not with my gunsmithing skills. This has really only been a problem in developing consistent loads, especially with bullets that are intolerant to changes in seating depth (e.g., X-bullets). I don't often switch barrels and I'm not loading for shooting competitions, so for my purposes this has been a tolerable problem.

Hey thanx so much again for all your comments, i appreciate your thoughts and ideas. I plan on using my dies and a sized case to set headspace also. And Bigbore50ak i think that midway nut wrench is the one i was thinking of. I think the one in Brownells doesnt have the 1/2 inch wratched square. The one from sharpshooter doesnt have it either so i think ill get the one from midway.

KEEP THE REPLIES COMING PLEASE!!!!

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE

just watch braking barrels loose with the 1/2 square and a braker bar it started to twist in the square but for tourqing the nut it should be fine jason

One thing that makes a difference with headspacing is the machining of the threads. The factory threads on the barrel are a bit loose, which makes headspacing a bit, shall we say, in-exact.

My Pac-nor barrel, however, has threads that fit the action so tight there is no play I can find, and the headspacing with it is much more positive. FWIW, Dutch.