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Found a very good website on adjusting the Remington 700 triggers. Just like I've been doing it for a few years now. But is this the way the pros would do it? Jay http://www.theoutdoorwriter.com/shooting/r700_trigger_2.htm | ||
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Anybody? | |||
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Jay, that guys instructions are dangerous. Read all the way through and you might notice that he ends it with 2 stories of where his triggers have failed in the field. There are much better sources out there...............DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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........................................ "Speaking of the sear, exactly how does a trigger work? As you might have guessed, that is a function of the trigger design. In the case of a bolt action, the trigger serves to release the firing pin housed in the bolt. The surfaces that control the release of the firing pin are called the trigger sear. On a Winchester Model 70 trigger, the trigger itself engages the firing pin. This makes for a simple trigger, but this design has drawbacks. It is difficult to obtain a light trigger pull that is creep-free – there is too much friction. The Remington trigger, which first came out in 1948, uses a lever between the firing pin and trigger to eliminate the friction problem. Figure 1 illustrates the basic design of this trigger, which has been copied by many other suppliers. A Timney trigger, for example, is almost an exact replica of the Remington (but of higher quality). Essentially, the middle lever contains a square edge that bears against another square edge that is part of the curved trigger." .............................................. Jay I pulled this material above from the link you provided which indicates to me the guy does not even remotely know what the hell he is talking about, and so I will not waste my time reading the rest of the link. His instructions will possibly only serve to get someone killed or injured! As an example of my inclination the author states: ............................................... "Figure 1 illustrates the basic design of this trigger, which has been copied by many other suppliers. A Timney trigger, for example, is almost an exact replica of the Remington (but of higher quality)." ............................................. This statement is TOTALLY Incorrect!! No other manufacturer aftermarket or otherwise that I am aware of utilizes a "Resiliently Mounted Trigger Connector", this feature is unique to the world of firearms and as far as I know today to Remington fire controls alone... His diagram does not reflect the fact that the Remington trigger design is comprised of two distinctly separate pieces which does not achieve the design criteria or possibly the potential functions that he describes in his instructions in the most basic of terms... That being said, IMHO the man is an armature who should conduct more extensive research on this design before he writes such instructions that some other armature might actually read and employ!!!! Augustis ><> To Be Safe, First Think You Might Not Be. | |||
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Anyone who starts “fiddling“ with Remington triggers had better know and understand what they are doing...and this guy doesn’t seem to fall into that category. | |||
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The "outdoor writer" posts here and has a healthy ego, maybe he'll chime in. ______________________ Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else. | |||
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Dempsey ............................ "The "outdoor writer" posts here and has a healthy ego, maybe he'll chime in." ............................. I wish he would chime in as the statement I copied from the link is enough to make the hair on my back neck stand up!!!! ............................. "The first screw I adjust is the weight of pull screw. Cock the trigger by lifting and closing the bolt. Backing the screw out will lighten the trigger pull, because it elongates the return spring. Back out the screw and test the pull either by feel or with a trigger pull gauge until it feels right." ................................ Back out the screw and test the pull either BY FEEL OR with a trigger pull gauge ??????? You mean the trigger pull gauge is an optional measure, WTF is that??? Augustis ><> To Be Safe, First Think You Might Not Be. | |||
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Hey Jay, This is basically what I do. http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/RemingtonTriggers.asp You do not need a Trigger Pull gauge to do the job. | |||
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HC, Actually always thought Pablito's instructions sucked cuz when I got to the backlash part the pin wouldn't drop, so I had to turn it a bit further, like 1/2 turn more and it worked perfect. After I tried it a second time the weight screw is actually in further then when before I started, and the trigger feels great and from all the drop tests and slamfires appears to be safe. Sear is backed out 1/3 turn from where it dropped the pin, per instructions. Thinking about trying pablitos instructions on my 6mm next week. Jay | |||
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Considering some of the instructions and suggestions out there it’s easy to see how Remington got such a bad rap for their triggers! | |||
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His diagram sure don't look like any remington trigger I have ever seen. Another thing I noticed is that I could not find his name on the web site anywhere. If he is supposed to be some great outdoor writer, why is he afraid to go by his real name? Just one of my little pet peeves. John Holliger | |||
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Hey Jay, It is best to think of the Instructions as general Guidelines rather than absolutes. Something as simple as a screw being a bit longer or shorter than what the writer was using can easily change how it looks. It used to be a lot easier to get an excellent Trigger Pull due to the Spring having a different set of weight requirements. It has been increased in strength from back then. Best of luck on the adjustments. | |||
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