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That's right, I did something EXTREMELY stupid and left off the barrel band sling swivel when I put the band front sight on. And the forearm is way too short to think about putting a sling stud on it. So, any suggestions for removing the Masterpiece front band without damaging it or the barrel? It's epoxied with AcraGlass Gel, and is WELL cured -- you'll find it even more amusing that I didn't miss the swivel stud for over a month. I'm thinking some gentle propane heat, any other ideas? Thanks, Todd | ||
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one of us |
Todd, I think you got it right the first time. Gentle heat will do the trick. If you want to try something else first, shove it in the freezer for a couple of days and try a brass drift and hammer. | |||
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One of Us |
Todd, I put a barrel band on a Yugoslav 24 and I cut out the top of the band and then beveled the edges to somewhat take on the look of the octagon on the first half of the barrel. I did it just for looks but I have done it since on barrels that were round and they look good. The other advantage is that it may be able to slip past your front sight given the width of the ramp is not too wide. Oh crap, just looked and you used a band front sight. Never mind. You might try freezing the barrel and the band and then give it a rap sideways. | |||
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one of us |
Todd, think expansion coefficient. Think cold and rapid, gentle yet firm heat. Is a picture forming in your head? Do as the other gentlemen have suggested, toss that barreled action in the freezer, down in the bottom, we want it as cold as possible. Start your Bernzo-matic after you have fitted a few wraps of tinfoil to the barrel. Quickly. This is all in your vise right now by the way. Put some heat on it just enough to get it very uncomfortable to a naked hand. Rap the site hard with your brass drift, a quick sharp rap. Since you rapidly warm up that band it will absorb the heat quickly and expand much more quickly than that barrel. This will probably go best if you have someone to help put the heat on the band so you can smack it when you ready. Just a suggestion. [ 11-28-2002, 11:37: Message edited by: Roger Rothschild ] | |||
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one of us |
Freeze it then tap it off with a soft mallet. | |||
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Thanks for all the responses -- I will try the deep freeze then heat method. What may save me here yet is that I slightly overexpanded the band - I like the front edge of the band 1/8" from the barrel end, and ususally size such that a couple of taps are needed to seat it back there -- but this one was a little looser, and so has more acraglass under it. I guess this bodes well for the durability of things that are acra-glassed on -- I always wondered how much it would take to knock it loose. Knowing how strong this stuff is [now], I could probably just acraglass a stud to the bottom of the barrel, but I've already got this fitted, blued Talley band, so... Thanks to all, Todd | |||
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Moderator |
put it in the freezer.. and with everything else.. nose down.... drill a 2x4 with a .75 drill (bigger than the barrel) and do as the other's have said.. an effective (thougth I haven't tried this yet) way to put heat EXACTLY on the band is to wrap it with bailing wire (yep) the band, that is, leave about 12" on either end, and tough it to a 6volt battery... this will go cherry red.. NOW. here's my screw up with acraglass.. the very first time I used it, and didn't read the "mechincal lock" part on the intructions I coated everything about 4 times, bedded it, put it together, and then turned the screws in, though the glass... about 6 hours later.. guess what... screws are mechicanlly locked into the action... rather than freak, i went to radio shack, (remember, this was the first time) and got a microtorch... heated the screwheads, increasing the heat every time, until they turned out... but, the trick was I put heat on, wait to let the heat move "down" the screw, an then repeat... yep, i did scorch the stock (not bad, btw).. and yep I learned a HUGE lesson. jeffe | |||
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<JBelk> |
Todd--- Been there, done that!! Propane torch and 350 F will take it right off. When it smokes and bubbles it's past ready. I have too many critters waiting on taxidermy money to waste freezer space with barreled actions. | ||
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I will have a bit of free time next week, so will try it. I hope it goes better than my first mistake with a Masterpiece band front sight -- while trying to fit it, I got it stuck on the barrel. Unable to get it off, I finally cut the band with a dremel tool. Shortly thereafter, I read the instructions (remember RTFM?) where it said "size by driving onto barrel, then expand the band with sharp blows from a flat faced hammer." The cost of my first Mauser project was probably twice what it should have been, because of stupid mistakes like that! Todd | |||
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I take it you folks think epoxy is adequate to install a barrel band front sight then ? Shucks , then any dumb ass (like me) , could install a front sight . Maybe use JB Weld just to make sure ? | |||
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SDGS, In my limited and unprofessional opine, it is more than adequate. I have installed several now -- in addition to epoxy, I also mark where the set screw will contact the barrel, and drill a slightly oversize, 1/8" deep recess for it to set into. They really aren't hard to install at all, once you figure out that trick of expanding the band Todd Edited: Oh yes forget to add, if you're going to hot blue or rust blue, you should epoxy on the sight AFTERWARDS. Neither process seems very friendly towards epoxy. [ 11-29-2002, 19:57: Message edited by: Todd Getzen ] | |||
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If I may resurrect this post briefly... Many thanks to all who offered help here and via e-mail. I used all the advice given, including the deep freeze bit. I was able to remove the sight intact, with just a couple of hammer blows on the bottom of the band to polish out. If you heat the epoxy until it's black and smoking, it comes off pretty easy. Again, I would recommend the epoxy and setscrew method of sight attachemnt as one that is as permanent as you are likely to need. I only made one additional FUBAR in removing it, that is forgetting to pop out of the hood retaining button - the button is fine, but the spring, having been well-heated, ain't so springy anymore. Easily fixed though. Thanks again guys. | |||
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