How feasible is it to get a quality rust blue finish a little bit at a time? What I mean is, suppose one were to get an inexpensive Mauser action (e.g., a VZ-24) with the intent of turning it into a usable, but inelegant hunting tool at as low a cost as possible initially, but with the further intent of upgrading the rifle piecemeal by doing such things as bending/welding the bolt handle, replacing the safety and triggerguard, maybe even so far as some engraving, but all at a later date as time and funds allowed. Could you do this and conceivably rust blue parts or patches to perfectly match, or will you inevitably end up with an ugly pastiche?

If progressive rust bluing isn't a viable option, would you recommend hot bluing or some other lesser finish for the work in progress with the intent of stripping it bare and rust bluing once the ugly duckling has finally become a swan?

I would use a spray finish. It sounds like you want to do a simple finish, and you will need to do a lot of prep and polishing before you do a rust blue you want to be proud of. Spray is quick and looks OK, and you can touch it up easy enough if you need to. A good one is black spray lacquer then bake it in an oven at 300 degrees then cool, I like to put the gun in and after 5 minutes turn the oven off then leave it in until it has cooled all the way off several hours later. Makes a nice hard durable finish.

InfoSponge---

Odd that you should ask that today...... Most of the day today I did some extensive remodling of a pretty nice M-98 sporter.

It's an early VZ-24 action that was barrelled to 30-06 as a strickly iron sight rifle.

I turned the hand stomped (not stamped) caliber designation from the barrel shoulder, rechambered it to 300 Win Mag., then engraved the caliber on the new shoulder.

The Orbendorf-style bolt handle was cut off and rewelded to a low scope conformation.

The receiver sight holes were TIG welded closed and the right side of the bridge and the rear ring were surface ground and polished. Then I drilled and tapped it for Tally mounts.

The rifle was VERY well rust blued to begin with......but now it has areas of new work and polish that's bright.

I just now put the first coat of rust blue only on the freshly polished areas. It's surprisingly easy to blend in repairs or alterations.

[ 03-29-2003, 04:48: Message edited by: JBelk ]

InfoSponge---

Don't be too quick on the compliments. I forgot to check the phase of the moon and a Trumpeter swan just flew by...........*alone*!!!

That's probably voodoo bad luck and the threads will probably rot off the barrel and my dog will get worms, and the parts that are supposed to rust wont and everything else will.

I need some PURITY!! Hey Steve! What's a votive candle?

Here is an article on rust bluing:
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar48.htm
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar51.htm

Clark---

Interesting articles, well written.

Just one thing---I've never heard of carding *before* boiling. If it works I guess that's all that counts, but I've never heard of it being done before.

JBelk,

You might want to re-read that part about "carding before boiling". If I read it right he said he "set himself back about 3 hrs." by doing this. In other words don't do it.

Coon

Coon---

You could be right. I read it four more times and I'm *clearly* more confused now than I was the first time.

Joe D'Alessandro, the owner of realguns, always seems to write things in a way that I can understand.
And he is often one step ahead of me in the subject matter.
If his website were a magazine, I would buy a lifetime subscription.

I have never heard of that site until now. What a great resource!

Jack,
Remember I have a voodoo doll of you in case that rust blue goes bad!!! You will be known as Mr. pin cushion...