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Can anyway verify/inform that it is possible to straighten a slightly warped forearm on a bolt action rifle? Is it possible to route out the forearm, place in vice/form/straightener and fill the routed out channel with epoxy or an aluminum rod and epoxy? Is there a better way? I find it very common that bolt rifles forearms eventually warp enough to the side that they contact the barrel on one side. I would rather straighten the forearm than relieve wood on one side and have a huge gap on the opposite side. Any help or comments would be appreciated. Thanks! Mike | ||
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You can certainly bend wood, but I don't think you can get it to stay. Especially in an area where it is exposed to rapid temperature changes like the forearm. You can add re-bar and other types of stiffeners, but unless you can tie it to the receiver, I believe it will be a frustrating and losing battle.
Keep removing the wood until the gap is even. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Thanks. Not the answer I wanted. Could you try again! | |||
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I have an old Savage wooden stock that warped over a 1/4" when I moved from South Carolina to Idaho. I opened up the left side to clear the barrel and had a horrible gap on the right side. I shot it for about a year and discovered the stock was continuing to warp. I put it in a fiberglass stock after that. Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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Yes I can. Cut the warped forearm off and glue on one that isn't warped. _______________________________________________________________________________ This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life. | |||
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Many experienced shotgun smiths can bend wood so that it will remain bent. There are several methods but all I've heard about involve low heat, oil and lots & lots of time plus eventual refinishing. I suggest you ask one of the UK/US emigre smiths who advertise in the DGJ, they may be able to help. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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Or just cut it off to 7 inches like Euro style and be done with it ! . . | |||
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I wouldn't be asking the question but for the fact it is an unusually fine piece of wood on a good shooting New Haven Winchester 70 270. | |||
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MikeG50, Check with Mike Orlen, Amherst MA, 413 253 5665. He can do it. | |||
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Thanks for that. m | |||
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Sounds like you have a real problem! The first thing that comes to my mind is to use steam, and maybe overbend it just a bit. The same way they bend wagon wheels, chair backs, violins? The trick would be to find someone that would know enough about it to be able to pull it off! Good luck, let me know if you try his route I'd like to hear how it turns out! | |||
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You may know more than I (because this is totally out of my knowledge), but I'm skeptical of steam because the wood has a moisture resistant finish. I would think the steam would have to penetrate deeply. No? I fell very confidently that routing out the forearm and straightening with epoxy and a rod would work ASSUMING that you routed out enough of the original wood. I'm very reluctant to attempt this. | |||
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Everyone feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken, but I've been told that Winchester "pressure bedded" the left side of their barrels on many/ (most?) of the NH guns. I own quite a few of these M70's, and almost all of the wood-stocked ones that I haven't custom stocked have slight pressure, all on the left side, all in the same place. All shoot fine except a Fwt. .308. Is this what you might be seeing, or is your problem different? | |||
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Straightening wood is similar to bending wood . STEAM and PRESSURE !. It may be necessary to strip the stocks finish also , so as to ensure complete re drying of the wood. The trick is knowing how much too move the warp ,as it's necessary to OVER CORRECT , if any chance of stability is to be successful . Another method is straightening the stock as mentioned and machining a channel insert, out of Aluminum or Composite using epoxy with say Carbon Boron is ultra stiff . The wood won't warp against a channel insert . Check out Savage Accustocks ; http://www.savagearms.com/accuracy/accustock/ | |||
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