sorry for what must be such a silly question, but why are takedown mausers so expensive? seems to me you need nothing more than an excellent thread fit and a simple, robust latch to prevent twisting under fire. I don't see the need for any interrupted threads or other tricks, and this would be a moderate-pressure caliber, like 7mmAI, etc.

judging from the prices folks are getting for such rifles, there must be more to it. what is it?

thanks.

I heard that take downs were all the rage when hunters traveled by rail.

A switch barrel where you have to pull the barrel and action then pull the barrel and then re-install is not that expensive. I have one MKX that has 3 barrels fitted to it. I can swap in about 10 minutes.

Expense comes when you want a rifle that you can do guickly in the field and still have everything firm and accurate.

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
I heard that take downs were all the rage when hunters traveled by rail.

so that's why the conversion is so expensive. thanks!

no wonder your edits to the che wiki entry were deleted.

Yep it's about as simple as that.

If you're talking about a single barrell "tool less" takedown . You forgot quick detachable mounts, fixing forend to barrell, that "simple latch" that you spoke about (which probably includes plate attached to barrell and forend, plate on action ring/forend, bedding of action/barrell/fixing plates has to be good for it to run a chance of accuracy/repeatable post barrell swap accuracy and for just the mechanical dismounting and mounting the barrell.

All the takedown furniture has to be made as you can't buy it off the shelf.

If you're talking about multiple barrells you'll have to multiply all this stuff by two/more, including mounts and scopes and that's assuming that the second/third (??) cartridge is of similar length, identical head size, similar body contours.

Just take an accurate reliable rifle and apply all of the above to it.

Somehow one peice stocks don't appreciate being cut in half.

Yep the principles are very simple. The principle is not "black magic". However, unless you can do it yourself, you first have to find someone who can ......... and will .....do the work. And there time is worth something.

The latch is to stop the barrell turning out and increasing headspace.

Add to all of the above a reliable method for taking up thread wear.

Dave

There was an interesting TD rifle in G&A many years ago.

Imagine a barrel with half the normal number of threads, stepped down with a 6" straight cylinder (no outside shoulder) then tapered to the bore. The barrel will install like any standard barrel.
Now imagine a 6+" tapered sleeve with the rest of the threads that slides over cylinder part of the barrel. (so theres no iron sights).
It would look like a normal barrel shank but with half the number of threads.

I can't remember who built it.

If you built the action from scratch the barrel need not have any threads.

Rich