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If paste wax is used as a bedding release agent, what is the best solvent to ensure it is completely removed before rust blueing? | ||
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I use acetone or laquer thinner followed with very hot soapy water. I do it twice. | |||
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Thanks Craigster! | |||
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I boil the parts in water with A&H Washing Soda. It's cheap; it's environmentally friendly and it works well. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Purple Power isw great stuff for degreasing before bluing. http://www.facebook.com/profil...p?id=100001646464847 A.M. Little Bespoke Gunmakers LLC 682-554-0044 Michael08TDK@yahoo.com | |||
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Degreasing, yes, but will it eat paste wax? | |||
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Won't heating it with a flame melt it off. | |||
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I would first wipe it off with lots of tissue paper - say 5 or 6 times at least. Then a good spray of Meths should clean it up. Finally I would go for the boiling treatment with washing soda. That will emulsify any grease 100%. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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One of Us |
The mechanical action of a fine sandpaper polish job will start the process. Do an online search for "wax removers"...there is a ton of stuff that will work, many environmentally friendly, which means they are emulsifiers more or less...THEN...a very hot water, detergent wash, followed by a hot water rinse will get all the oils out of the pores of the metal, heat up the barrel and help dry it out faster. Brownells and Midway both have some interesting articles on how to prep a barrel for coating, and more information online at the sites offering different coating processes. Some coaters us a hotwater clean and rinse with a metal etcher as a final action before dropping into the blueing tank. Spray brake/parts cleaners with TCE do a very good job, but wear a mask...that stuff will waste your liver quicker than lousy booze. Luck | |||
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