Gentlemen,
Could anyone point me toward directions for timing of a Model 70 Safety?(Specifically a Classic) Essentially the Cocking Piece to Sear relationship. I'm a CST graduate, however, I asked this question of several instructors with muddled responses. I'm trying to get the same trigger pull after the safety is applied and released. Essentially the operation mentioned in John Barsness's article about D'arcy Echol's Legend Rifle in RIFLE several years ago. Your input is greatly appreciated...

Regards, Matt Garrett.
757-581-6270

When you purchase a M-70 Safty for a specific make, model of rifle, the directions give you the exact angle of the cocking piece cut. In many case if you harden or reharden the cocking piece notch and lightly polish, things will work better. Your post is a little confusing to me as it seems to address the relationship between the safty and the trigger pull, and although they do relate to each other, both are a seperate operation IMO. Anyway I hope this helps.

I reread the above and it may be a little confusing to you. You can grab the cocking piece and pull it back and at the same time attempt to cock the safty, when it catches, that is where you want it to be but if the cocking piece cut is at the correct angle, then it will be positioned correctly. Is that any clearer, or am I muddling you even further.

On a Mod 70, applying the safety retracts the cocking piece from the sear and holds it back via the safety notch in the firing pin/striker assy. Removing the safety lowers the cocking piece back into position against the sear.

If the angle of engagement between the cocking piece and the sear is too shallow, then the cocking piece will try to override the sear which can result in a non-uniform trigger pull. I believe the factory angle is 55 degrees.

If you alter this angle, the safety notch will move too far forward and out of alignment, requiring the need to "re-time" the engagement. Which part of this are you referring to?

Westpac, How far off the sear do you want the safety to pull the striker back? Is this something you typically adjust or just be carefull to not go too far when you polish the engagement surfaces?......................DJ

quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
Westpac, How far off the sear do you want the safety to pull the striker back? Is this something you typically adjust or just be carefull to not go too far when you polish the engagement surfaces?......................DJ

I would say a separation of .020-.025 is probably average. I only make the adjustment if the safety engages hard, or, the engaged safety allows to striker to slip past the sear on release. A BIG NO NO. Maintaining the original angle and lightly polishing the surface should not require any adjustment. It's when you remove material or change angles that you will more than likely need to re-set the safety cam engagement.

"When you purchase a M-70 Safty for a specific make, model of rifle, the directions give you the exact angle of the cocking piece cut. In many case if you harden or reharden the cocking piece notch and lightly polish, things will work better. Your post is a little confusing to me as it seems to address the relationship between the safty and the trigger pull, and although they do relate to each other, both are a seperate operation IMO. Anyway I hope this helps.

Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures"

Mr. Atkinson,
I'm afraid I was not clear in my original question. I am referring to timing a Model 70 safety on a Winchester Model 70 Classic Rifle. Not installing a three position safety on a Mauser. I've installed both the Gentry and NECG three position safeties on 98s with the attendant setting of thumb lever/cocking piece angle, polishing, and after function testing rehardening...

What I was referring to here is the tendency of some Winchester Model 70 Classics to increase trigger pull significantly after the safety has been applied and released. Essentially the Cocking Piece and Sear do not reengage, for lack of a better term, in the same relationship as when the rifle is bolted. I have an early production Classic Supergrade in .300 Win Mag that only barely exhibits this trait, however, I have three other Super Grades(.270 Win, .30-06', and .338 Win Mag) that feature it in spades. I read about the fix in Barsness's article on Mr. Echols' Legend Rifle severarl years back...

Mr. Echols was nice enough to send me a private message that explained the procedure is more detailed than the article illustrated and it requires a custom fixture. Along with a couple hours of his time...

I GREATLY appreciate your time, as well as Westpacs, responding to this post...

Regards, Matt Garrett
Chesapeake, Virginia

Westpac,
I'm referring to the initial fix to an improperly timed Model 70 safety. The sears nor cocking pieces have been altered in any way...

Regards, Matt.