Prices for this vary from $25 - 30 on up. One piece of advice I can give you, don't try it yourself with a Dremel tool
If you haven't bought the bolt yet, you can buy one already modified from Numrich Gun Parts (www.gunpartscorp.com). Their site is down right now, or I'd tell you a price -- last I remember for a stripped bolt body w/ turned down knob for scope clearance was ~$80; probably a savings vs. paying to have your own modified. I'm sure there are other places out there too.
Take care, Todd
[This message has been edited by Todd Getzen (edited 06-09-2001).]
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001
I did a Mauser bolt face myself in a friend's lathe. That stuff is hard! I'd have been money ahead to pay someone to do it by the time I got the broken tools paid for.
Some are harder than others. I use a correctly ground carbide tol bit, slow rpm, easy on the feed. Biggest problem with carbide is that interrupted cut! Occasionally a real hard one shows up, then it is time for the tool post grinder and a small square end grinding "point" at high rpm. The ground face looks kind of nice too!
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001
John will hopefully be getting my action and some money(as soon as I get the dough!) for a .35 Whelen. I still have an aching desire to try to fit a "no lathe" Shilen from Brownell's though. I 'll probably do it then take it up the road to Hook Boutin for a good once over inspection, he builds service/tactical rifles and Garands/M1A's.
Thanks, Mike
Posts: 324 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 20 April 2002
Yea, gotcha now. I don't always associate the handles on the forums with the real names. I am on the Olympic Peninsula in the extreme NW corner of WA state. Should of been here last night, our dogs (Anatolian Shepherds, the big guy is 160 pounds) alerted on a Cougar that was prowling the back fence line, I am going out this morning to look for sign. So many cats up here it reminds me of African Farm stories I have read about.
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001
I've opened up a number of Mauser bolts using the following procedure. I place a milling attachment on the lathe tool rest and then center in it a dremel extension tool containing a carbide cutter. The dremel tool itself can be hung up at any convienient angle. The bolt is held in a four jaw using a labounty bolt fixture. I indicate the bolt to run true with less than .001 runout. I then turn on the dremel tool to high speed and with the bolt turning at 70 rpm advance the carbide cutter into the bolt rim from the center out. It takes just a minute to open the bolt up to the proper dimensions. You can stop and test fit a cartridge to assure that you have opened it up appropriately.
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001
Would the bolt face need to be opened to rebarrel a VZ-24 from .270 to 6.5x55? Or does the existing bolt face have enough leeway to allow for the extra .007"?
Posts: 1246 | Location: Northern Virginia, USA | Registered: 02 June 2001
John Frazer, Generally speaking you are correct. But with a piece of brass and the bolt out of the receiver you can check it. There is always a little extra space to allow other changes. Bill
I assume you mean I am correct that it could work unmodified?
I just tried the bolt in question with a fired case and it seemed to slip in under the extractor quite nicely. I imagine I might have trouble snapping the extractor over a chambered round--which I can now do just barely by pressing on the claw behind its collar while turning the handle down.
Damn, now I'm feeling the clutches of temptation again.
John
Posts: 1246 | Location: Northern Virginia, USA | Registered: 02 June 2001
I opened a VZ-24 for a .338 WM when I was in school. The instructor only had one comment "Harder than WoodPecker Lips" Using a carbide cutter and still had to go real slow. Sean
Posts: 537 | Location: Vermont | Registered: 04 March 2001
