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bedding a butler creek stock
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FN Mauser 98 in a butler creek synthetic stock.
Recoil lug has screw coming through center. Synthetic stock seems a little mushy in action area and back tang screw area.
Thinking of using stainless steel thin plate under action. And acraglas
Anyone ever bed one of these?
 
Posts: 14 | Registered: 27 May 2007Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by richard48367:
FN Mauser 98 in a butler creek synthetic stock.
Recoil lug has screw coming through center. Synthetic stock seems a little mushy in action area and back tang screw area.
Thinking of using stainless steel thin plate under action. And acraglas
Anyone ever bed one of these?



I have never had a mushy one? The 3 I have done have all been pretty rigid in the action area. Degrease & rough up & under cut all areas to be bedded that plastic is slippery clap
I used black steel bed from brownells.
Good luck.
 
Posts: 2357 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I've bedded a few Ramlines. I got a tip on this board, I can't remember from who but it seems to be a good one.

Seems he had to repair a plastic canoe or kayak and the manufacturer told him to lightly and quickly pass a blow torch over the surface to be bonded. You don't want to melt anything but apparently it changes the molecular structure so the epoxy will bond to it. I tried it on the two Ramlines I did and found the epoxy would stick to the torched surface. I used Devcon Plastic Steel. I used a small cigar lighter torch to get into the nooks.

Rob
 
Posts: 1682 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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I drill a few shallow holes all around where the epoxy is going to help it all bond.

Not sure what you mean about the back tang area but best to leave a small gap behind the tang rather than have a tight inlet there. Action needs to be able to very slightly slide back under recoil without binding.
 
Posts: 197 | Location: Auckland, New Zealand | Registered: 19 October 2006Reply With Quote
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