I have a Leupold scope mounted in Leupold rings on a 375 Ruger and the scope is moving under recoil. I have many Leupold scopes mounted in Leupold rings and have never had this problem, even on other heavy recoiling rifles (358 Norma Mag, 375 H&H, 458 Win Mag, etc). Any simple suggestions on resolving this issue.

Thanks in advance.

You might try de-oiling the scope tube and rings with Gunscruber and using rosen when you re-attach everything.

Roughing up the inside of the rings might help as well, but will mar the scope tube.

Is your Leupold the slick tube or the Matte finish.

If it is a slick tube the only thing that might work is doing the above de-oiling with a new Matte finish tubed scope.
I hate to recommend putting anything between the scope and the rings as it will deteriate over time and just might fail just when you need it the most.

NE 450,

Thanks for the reply. The scope is a matte finish as are the rings. I don't have another set of Leupold rings but I do have a set of Warne that I will try just to see if it makes a difference.

The reason I discovered the problem is that the POI kept changing even though I was using loads that had been very stable in the past. I discovered the problem when I removed the scope to check to be sure that the screws in the mounts were adequately torqued. I will try another set of rings before I rough the finish.

Thanks again,

SD Shooter

One thing you can try is dusting the inside of the rings with rosin or if you don't have that use powdered sugar; that works sweet.

First, lap the rings so you get somewhat of a better fit and then glass bed the scope to the rings.

Or, you could do it the other way; glass the bases to the action. I usually find the former to work better. After all of this, a bit of rosin will work wonders.

Or, you can get a set of Burris Signature rings and forget about it. Because of the inserts, they align without reaming. However, if you ream and match your rings to your particular action then you increase the grip surface of the rings and the scope stay's put. But will also need to have a dry tube.

All these suggestions have merit. The use of Electricians "Liquid tape" really grabs and does no harm I thank Mark Cromwell at NECG for this suggestion

Hey SD Shooter, Is it a Ruger rifle with their built in Bases?

1+ on Westpac's solution...

MKane160

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
First, lap the rings so you get somewhat of a better fit and then glass bed the scope to the rings.

I use that method too, but I don't use release agent.

Just be sure you get it straight the first time...

I have used loctite thread locker in my scope rings.

Rad

use some of the good info here and than reduce the recoil. roger

Another vote for the Burris rings.

I've had really great success with Locktite 620 or a generic derivative . Another type of adhesive that work near as well is the glass adhesive used to secure Rear View mirrors on windshields . I have used CRL or Sika urethanes . Simply clean the scope and inside of the rings off with either Alcohol , acetone or lacquer thinner .
Place a drop on the bottom and top of the rings screw together . I also use it on the ring screws.
I suggest the removable type . Any excess wipe off with a rag or paper towel .

Allow it to set up for a day , Good to Go . Shake rattle and roll it stays fast .

ONE WORD OF CAUTION !. If you use a windshield mirror adhesive , be Dam sure you know exactly where your scope goes and have everything ready to go ASAP . It sets FAST !. Little kits are available in any Automotive parts outlet .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
All these suggestions have merit. The use of Electricians "Liquid tape" really grabs and does no harm I thank Mark Cromwell at NECG for this suggestion

Ross Seyfried recommended "3M Liquid Electricians Tape" long ago.

I could not find any at first search so started using clear or black silicone adhesive/sealant from the auto parts store. Comes in a convenient toothpaste-sized squeeze tube that will do hundreds of rings. A little dab will do ya.

That will never fail. Just a few molecules thick between the scope and the ring after you tighten the ring halves. The excess squishes out and is easily wiped off while still wet.

Besides the 100% no-slip, it also seals out stray lubricants or moisture from a downpour of rain, or tipping over of the mekoro, or a blast of elephant snot at close range ...

There is absolutely no excuse for a scope moving in the rings. Only a Bozo would allow that, so stop it right now or go join the circus!!!

Forget the "rosin" and "powdered sugar" crap.
DO DEGREASE before applying the silicone adhesive!!!

Use "3M Liquid Electrician's Tape"
or
Silicone adhesive.

Hi RIP,

Thanks for your unfettered suggestions. Actually, that's not the first time that the circus has been contemplated; being involved with local county government, I contemplate circuses at least once a week. And, it seems that I have been addressed previously by the name "Bozo." And I think that my mother said something about joining the circus, maybe more than once. And I'm sure that my wife and kids have mentioned such a vocation. But such fond thoughts aside -

I would like to thank all of the contributors for the great suggestions. Of course, being the simple minded circus like person that I am, I will start with the simplest suggestion which seems to be the liquid electrical tape. Since I posted this inquiry, I have not been to the "big city" (given the price of fuel and it being an 80 mile trip to a city with such available supplies) but am headed there today. So I will pickup the requisite materials (and look for more primers) and will attack the problem tonight.

I will let you all know the progress of the matter.

Again, many thanks.

SD Shooter

quote:

Originally posted by SD Shooter:

being the simple minded circus like person that I am, I will start with the simplest suggestion which seems to be the liquid electrical tape.

Unless you address the 'reason' the scope is slipping then you might as well use 'liquid bandage'. Scopes slip in their rings because there is not enough contact between the scope tube and the rings. Increase the grip surface and you fix the problem. Increasing the grip surface not only provides more grip, it reduces the accuracy destroying stress placed on the scope by 'out of whack' rings.

I been using rubber cement for decades. Once the scope is removed acetone will remove the cement.

SDShooter

Wespac's last reply says it all. If the rings are making full contact they will not slip, you dont realize how little contact some rings have untill you have lapped a few your self.

You did not say if you were using standard windage adjustable type mounts. If you are, your scope is only held by one ring. The windage adjustable rear does nothing to prevent forward movement. If this is what you have I would replace it with double dovetail Leupold mounts so both rings would be holding.

quote:

.... clear or black silicone adhesive/sealant ..... That will never fail. .... Besides the 100% no-slip ...

Not only that but it is removeable and it gives plenty time to align the scope before setting. I used it to secure a really crap design set of scope rings. Worked a treat. It even survived the rifle falling onto the scope (damaging the power adjustment) but did not shift POI.

It sounds to me like you could do one of a few things to solve this problem:

1. Properly lap the scope rings to make sure the scope tube is making full, even contact when torqued down.

2. Use a dab of rubber cement as Snowwolfe suggested.

3. See if you can scare up a set of Burris Signature rings. I've been using these for years, and I haven't yet found a reason NOT to use them. You might have to double check this, but I don't believe they make them for Ruger rifles anymore. I bought a set for mine 10 years ago and can't seem to find them anymore.

Any of those things should take care of the problem nicely.

I wonder why no one wants to use " Loctite " ?.
Pretty simple Gunsmiths use it pretty frequently to lock down screws . So a drop or two on the top bottom rings and the screws tighten evenly .

A single component simple to open and close . Properly sealed it's a reusable adhesive .
400 lb. - 3500 lb. shear strength depending on product number , did I miss something ?.

I guess it must be junk that's why Smiths use it !??.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Dr K

Loctite should not be used on the ring screws. Base screws only. The ring screws never come loose, only the base screws sometimes. The ring screws are under spring tension from the top of the ring halves which keep them from unscrewing.

Leupold recomends only oil for them. I have never seen any come loose but I have had to drill out quite a few that had been loctited and the screw heads stripped.

A little gunsmith tip for screws used on mounts and sights. When tightening the screws tap the handle of the screwdriver smartly with a light hammer. This will seat the screw heads better and they are there to stay. They can be easily removed without damage by the hammer trick in reverse.

Like Snowwolfe I am preferential towards rubber cement. Coat the bottom half of the ring, let dry, then recoat and a few minutes later install your scope. It prevents slippage even with rubber covered scopes yet they can be removed.

Of course, Burris Signature rings are nice too.

Thank You Craftsman ; I understand about using the correct Locktite or any of the other brands of Anaerobic Adhesives .

It's why I use the removable type " ONLY " on firearms . Real top quality rings it's totally unnecessary to use any helper products , as their design pinches the tube and need no help .

Lessor expensive ones well that's another ball game .

I've never had a problem applying it or removing it as I don't drown the parts in it to start with .

I do hear what your saying and would stay away from using anything around a Heli Coil insert .

Removed one of those someone had locktited with permanent adhesive one time !. OUCH I had to center punch and drill it out Heli Coil and all !!.
A sharp rap with a screw driver blade and hammer then a little solvent works well . So does a heated Blade left to rest and transfer heat to the screw . I only use Metal blades never plastic or wood handles when loosing them .

You know all these tricks already so I'm not telling you anything new .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

quote:

It's why I use the removable type " ONLY " on firearms .

I don't think the 'removable loctite' point was missed. I personally don't know of it - not in loctite anyway. Please will you give us the product type number? Thanks. (Silicone sealant is a bitch to clean off afterward. And when it gets on your fingers it gets onto everthing you touch! ).