Does anyone have a 9x57 fin reamer for sale or rent? Or know of one? The usual places have everything but.

I use an 8x57 reamer, piloted to bore diameter, and a 35 Whelen for the neck and throat; I use .358 barrels though. This gives you a wildcat; but easy to make, and make dies for.
Of course if you want an original 9x57 then you need the reamer, which I do not have. As you know, just call Dave Manson and he will grind one up for you.
As we all know, the 8x57 was not a Mauser invention.

358 barrel is my plan. With std reamer you can use std dies with a fatter expander for the 2 thou over bullet.

Plan B was to chamber for a shortie 35 whelen. But as you say, that's a wildcat. And it has less water capacity than the real deal. With a lower pressure limit for this action, less capacity is going the wrong way.

quote:

Originally posted by Russ Gould:
358 barrel is my plan. With std reamer you can use std dies with a fatter expander for the 2 thou over bullet.

Plan B was to chamber for a shortie 35 whelen. But as you say, that's a wildcat. And it has less water capacity than the real deal. With a lower pressure limit for this action, less capacity is going the wrong way.

What's wrong with a 358 Wnchester? Pretty much kicks on the heels of the 35 Whelen.

Even less capacity; He wants a lower pressure for the action he is using.
Ok,, here is another way; use an 8mm piloted reamer for the body and a 35 Rem reamer for the neck; that will give you the original dimensions. I just checked a mint box of Kynoch 9x57; that will work
Personally I would do the short Whelen; only difference is .010 of shoulder OD and it makes it easier all around. Body still use 8mm reamer.

Now I am thinking a shortened 35 Whelen AI would give the least bolt thrust .. all other things being equal. More case capacity, less taper. To maintain same oal as 9x57, have to short-chamber by about .280" and cut the dies the same amount. Getting the first case to use as a go-gauge is a chicken and egg problem though.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Even less capacity; He wants a lower pressure for the action he is using.
Ok,, here is another way; use an 8mm piloted reamer for the body and a 35 Rem reamer for the neck; that will give you the original dimensions. I just checked a mint box of Kynoch 9x57; that will work
Personally I would do the short Whelen; only difference is .010 of shoulder OD and it makes it easier all around. Body still use 8mm reamer.

What action is he using?

What action are you using?
I would cut the chamber and then make the die/brass fit that.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
What action are you using?
I would cut the chamber and then make the die/brass fit that.

I'm speaking of the action Russ is using.

Mauser 93 .. I am surprised nobody has gone down the AI path with these actions as the bigger case with less taper will get you the ft/s you need with less (much less according to P.O.) back thrust. The other ctg that seems a good candidate in these actions is the 6mm AI. You are AOK for a 25 cal and a 7mm as the robts and the x57 operate at lower pressure so no need to invent anything there.

But need a FL sized case to get chamber to right depth ... so it seems the way to proceed is to cut the chamber to a depth that will work with the magazine, shorten the die in increments to sneak up on a case that will just chamber ... oops you need a fireformed case to do this and to get a fireformed case you need a die cut to the right length or shorter .. but you don't have that until you have cut the die.

I do have a 35 whelen AI FL die and I ran a std 30-06 case through it. Of course it looks like a normal whelen not the AI version. If I shorten this die by the necessary amount (.28 if you want the same OAL as a 9x57, a bit less if you want a case with the same case length as the 9x57), run the case through it again, I may get something I can use for a go gauge, but then again, I may not as the shoulder will only be partially formed.

now if i had a go gauge ... but wait, there isn't one for an arbitrary wildcat version of the ctg .. so I would need to machine one and use that for both the chamber depth and the die length, to yield a resized case that will just chamber. Need to allow for spring back in the die, length wise. I know how to do that for the diameter but not the length. So maybe assume no spring back, then the die will be too long. Force chamber a case and fireform it. Then grind die a few thou at a time, resizing case until the case will "go" and then take off another two thou.

I have to say, this is pushing my envelope. Which brings me back to using a standard 9x57 reamer and gauges, if they can be found, or the double ream as suggested by Tom to get a standard 9x57 chamber. I am not going to sweat the .015 oversized bullet, other than maybe using an oversize expander ball; using 8x57 cases to make brass will thin the necks a bit so I don't think the reamer needs to allow for the fatter bullet (ie I don't think we will have a tight neck problem).

You are overthinking it; just do what you said in your last sentence; the other way to make an AI brass; expand it to form the shoulder, then neck it back down. There is your gauge for everything else. If you use the 35 Whelen reamer you automatically have the .358 neck and throat.
This is an easy project.
And I just happen to have a 280 AI reamer....might be a solid pilot though. Can't remember. Needs to be a removable one. Now, when you chop off the end of a resizing die you will have to polish it out to regain the original ID, due to the taper. But it is doable.
But if you already have a 35 AI die, the rest is easy.
Also, if you want a 98 action, I have them for $200.

I have two of those 98 actions, need to put this 93 into service.

I was surprised to find I can rent a 35 Wh AI reamer from 4D. They seem to have a lot of AI reamers. I have a standard 35Wh reamer and a 7x57 but not an 8x57.

KISS solution would still be to find a 9x57 reamer.

You had better watch out for Fred that runs 4D. What he does is when he gets a reamer back from you he says it's in bad shape and has to sharpen it. You're at his mercy and he want's addition money then he charged for the rent. I read this about him on the internet and lo and behold the last reamer I rented he done that. He can stick his rental up his ass. The last time I'll rent from him and I'll sure spread it around about him.

Good luck if you do.

I found long ago, that it is more cost effective to just buy the reamer; do the math. Rental cost is at least $70 by the time you pay shipping. And if he charges you a sharpening fee, double that. You can buy most reamers for $140 or so; and I figure any reamer is worth $70.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I found long ago, that it is more cost effective to just buy the reamer; do the math. Rental cost is at least $70 by the time you pay shipping. And if he charges you a sharpening fee, double that. You can buy most reamers for $140 or so; and I figure any reamer is worth $70.

That's true Tom. PTG has the 9x57 Mauser reamers for $169 BTW

A like new mauser 98 action Guild rifle followed me home a couple years ago. Got dies from CH4D that are a perfect fit and they were a reasonable price.It shoots 220 gr Speer bullets into tiny little groups with 3031 powder in necked up 8x57 brass.When properly loaded this round is the equal of the 358 Win and gives up very little to the 35 Whelan. Get your rifle built and you will not be sorry

I kinda of like my Husky 9.3x57 on the 96 Mauser action. It shoots both jacketed and cast into tiny holes at 100 yards. Great rifle, great caliber.

quote:

Originally posted by snowman:
A like new mauser 98 action Guild rifle followed me home a couple years ago. Got dies from CH4D that are a perfect fit and they were a reasonable price.It shoots 220 gr Speer bullets into tiny little groups with 3031 powder in necked up 8x57 brass.When properly loaded this round is the equal of the 358 Win and gives up very little to the 35 Whelan. Get your rifle built and you will not be sorry

Redding also makes 9X57 dies, or at least they did 'til recently. I bought a set a year or so ago from Graf, but I just checked and they still list them but say out of stock.

I have rented dozens of reamers from 4D without any problems. About $50 round trip. I usually get a couple at a time to ameliorate the shipping. I don't overfeed them and I keep them well lubricated with good cutting oil.

If it's a common caliber I either have it, or I buy it. But these oddballs you only use once, and when you are over the hill you think about buying stuff that will just get auctioned off for pennies some day.

after mulling this over for the longest time, I think the most interesting option would be to barrel this 93 for the 375 JDJ. I have the reamer, dies, and some cases. I have two other rifles in this caliber (a Marlin 336 and a Valmet 412 double) and find it superb for everything up to giraffe.

Having never done a bolt in a rimmed ctg (other than a Sav 340), I am wondering about the breech/extractor. One approach would be to notch the breech for the extractor like a p14 and seat the rim flush with the rest of the breech. The other option would be to headspace off the (fairly pronounced) shoulder and have the rim flush with the bolt face but not touching the breech, like any rimless ctg. Since the parent case is a 444, I am not sure how thick the "solid" portion of the case web is, ahead of the rim. I will cut up a case to find out.

Feeding seems not to be an issue. Case is fairly straight, not too fat, not much different than a belted case. May need to open up the rails a bit esp toward the front of the action to allow the round to pop free. Of course you have to stack them so the rims are ahead of the ctg immediately below, but that's not too hard to do.

Any thoughts?

Yes; use 30-06 brass instead; you don't need the rim
But if you insist on it, either way you mention will work. The web on a 444 is the same as a 30-06.
And the 375 JDJ is a great round.

that's genius .. having no rim will making feeding an absolute non-issue and no need to open up the boltface either .. thank you!

and what do we call this stroke of genius ... the 375 DPCD?

No.
You realize that dpcd stands for Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, and DeSoto. It's marked on all bolts and most parts from WW2 Dodge Military trucks.

I did not realize that.

The barrel is on. I kept it on the short side 23" but fairly stout. I made some rimless 375 JDJ cases from 30-06 as you suggested, so it's set up to headspace off the shoulder. Now just need to check feeding, put some sights on it (ghost ring rear sits on the cocking piece; front banded ramp), stock it and see how it shoots.

Maybe go with the British tradition as in ".375 2 1/4" Rimless Nitro Express". There is already a 375NE aka 375 2 1/2" which is rimmed, or "flanged" as the British say.

Yes go for it. I like the concept.

It sounds like you are expecting the name ".375 2 1/4" Rimless Nitro Express" to be something new and novel. It has been around since at least 1909 (date per Fleming) as the British version of the 9,5x57 Mannlicher-Schoenauer. A re-invention of the wheel, as they say.

Also, just as an FYI, Hornady 9,3x57 dies over-size the neck so much that they actually are perfect 9x57 dies just by changing out the expander ball.

The 400-375 belted pre dates the 9.5x57 for the Brits.
Being an oddball I built one. I got RCBS dies, the reamer and a belting die ( or use 240 wthby brass) It's a nice mild old cartridge. Played with it for a spell, shot a few critters, then stacked it in the corner to start on the next hair-brained scheme.

Darn.

375 JDJ Rimless then.

Didn't mean to rain on your parade. There's probably not a nickel's worth of difference in actual body dimensions between the 375 JDJ and the 375 2-1/4" (not the 400/375 H&H Belted) - the base-to-shoulder length on the samples of 375 2-1/4" I have here is 1.825" with a shoulder diameter of just over .450". I have no idea what the base to shoulder length of the 375 JDJ is but if your reamer shows close to 1.825" there would certainly be no reason not to mark your barrel "375 2-1/4" Nitro Rimless" as I'll bet factory ammo, if there were still any, would fit it just fine.

Years ago I actually had an original Fraser built on a '93 action in 375 2-1/4" Nitro Rimless that was a peach except - it being so light - kicked the living snot out of me.

The big difference is that you can get dies off the rack for the JDJ whereas the old stuff is $300 custom dies.
But you definitely can't call it a JDJ anything; that trademark is taken.
Mark it like the old NE stuff if you want to.