Yes I have seen that and many others.

The problem is I am starting from a blind unknown and learning each little bit.

I do not have a lathe. I cleaned up the Remington 512. Used the wirewheel on my Dremel to clean out the pits. Used 320 grit paper as well as steel wool. But not sure what to do to get a really good job done.

Then of course all the bits.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:
Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

There are others on youtube as well.

https://www.youtube.com/result...ch_query=rust+bluing

quote:

Originally posted by Craftsman:
Gentlemen : What is your favorite type of applicator for applying the solution ? I always used a piece of
cotton flannel. But someone recommended a very fine bristle brush.

Cotton ball loaded then squashed into paper towel to remove excess.

ONe thing Im sure of is rust blue is the best finish for guns, last longer and is prettier.

I also know the best rust bluers are the ones that do it the most..

I love the color of a bead blasted hot blue, but those little dents hold moisture and you need to keep them oiled all the time, they rust in inclement weather something terribly without care, I found wax is best...I like a low polished grit hot blue like the factories use. But rust blue is my all time choice.

Ive always had my rust blue done with barrels removed, guess it works both ways but Im satisfied with my guns blued by different smiths that took them apart..

It probably isn't necessary, just hasn't been a consideration with me, thought everyone separated them..I tried rust blueing "one time", it took several tries before it came out right, a nasty job that I don't care for, so I farm it out.....

Thanks for all the information folks. if i'm feeling perky in the fall, i'll do it myself. otherwise I'll send a USPS money order out with a few rifles. There will be some decent rifles available at my estate sale. They will be sold on this site. All of the information is invaluable.

Thanks for all the invaluable information. If I feel perky in the fall, I will have fun.

Here is me doing a milsurp with my steam method. My accelerated method is much faster and takes less passes due to my concentrated formulas. Metal prep is no big deal. Just take to 320 grit and make sure it is oil free before application. Don't use impregnated linen wheels. The grease in the compound is ground into the metal and needs to be boiled out with lye.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHyoUF50rF0


Bob
www.rustblue.com

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Can someone please help with a video of metal prep BEFORE applying the acid solution?

I have read a lot about this and I am convinced that the metal prep is the key. Should I remove all the sights & trigger? What do i do with bolt? What about all the other bits?

a video would be a great help.

I have a Remington .22 sitting around for about 8+ years waiting to be my first crack at rust bluing. I also have a classic Mannlicher Schoenauer that I want to rust blue.

I have got one lot of acids mixed with steel wool dissolved in it for several years. I have another lot nitric & hydrochloric acids and a source of ferric chloride to make a solution. I even got my son to weld up a boiling tank.