i have a mark x mauser that when you work the bolt quickly it's not cocked. what's the solution?

You are "Short Cycling" it, not bringing the bolt all the way back to allow the firing pin to catch the sear

You could also be "following through" possibly trigger set too light, the bolt sear angle might be a tad too obtuse, trigger sear dragging...take a close look, you'll probably find the cause

cookie,
I don't think that's right.

poppycock,
I remember having a similar issue when I adjusted the factory trigger too much. I was trying to set the sear engagment to minimum, and the trigger pull to about 3 lbs. When I got it set about where I thought it should be, the darn thing wouldn't stay cocked, just as you described. It could be also that your trigger is not attached corrctly, and may be loose.

The worst thing about the situation is that on the rifle I had and described, when I got the sear engagment adjusted where it would stay cocked, barely, when I bumped it the thing would dry fire. Luckily I discovered it before actually taking it out to hunt or to the range.

Now, when I'm adjusting any trigger, before calling it done, I work the bolt as vigorously as practical, and bump the rifle on the floor, butt down, several times to see if it will dry fire.

It's an accidental discharge waiting to happen.

I've had several Zastava Mauser actions, and IMO, the trigger is trash, and needs to be replaced - no messing around - period. The Timney for example is just too good to ignore.

Good luck, and be careful.
KB

A MKX cocks on opening. You don't have to cycle the bolt through a full cycle like you were loading a round. You should be able to lift the bolt and close it. You do need to allow the bolt to move rearward enough to clear the sear.

Only time I've had issues with a MKX trigger not holding was when I had the trigger set to light. As stated if the front trigger mounting screw is not tight it can cause issues as well.

I have plenty of MKX triggers. With just a touch of work I've always been very happy with them.

But if you don't want to fool with them a timney is a great option.

quote:

Originally posted by Kabluewy:
cookie,
I don't think that's right.

I agree with you KB. You would really have to short stroke a Mauser to cause it to fail to cock(as in not lifting the bolt to all the way before slamming it back down).

quote:

Originally posted by Kabluewy:
I've had several Zastava Mauser actions, and IMO, the trigger is trash, and needs to be replaced - no messing around - period. The Timney for example is just too good to ignore.

Again, I tend to agree that the Mark-X trigger is not my favorite, but many knowledgeable guys like them.

quote:

I've had several Zastava Mauser actions, and IMO, the trigger is trash, and needs to be replaced - no messing around - period. The Timney for example is just too good to ignore.

X3

quote:

I agree with you KB. You would really have to short stroke a Mauser to cause it to fail to cock(as in not lifting the bolt to all the way before slamming it back down).

I don't have access to any of mine at the moment. But doesn't the bolt have to move far enough rear to decompress the plunger on the shroud? Or is it my swiss cheese memory at work again?

When you lift the bolt handle, the cocking piece is cammed back and is held on the back end of the bolt body. The bolt must be fully withdrawn so the cocking piece will catch on the sear. Then when the bolt is pushed forward and turned down the cocking piece is free to fall when the trigger is pulled. What you are describing is probably due to insufficient sear engagement, and this can be adjusted.

Hugh

quote:

Originally posted by cookseyb:
You are "Short Cycling" it, not bringing the bolt all the way back to allow the firing pin to catch the sear

quote:

Originally posted by hughman:
The bolt must be fully withdrawn so the cocking piece will catch on the sear.

What you are describing is probably due to insufficient sear engagement, and this can be adjusted.

Hugh

Where do you guys get the notion that the bolt must be fully withdrawn?

As said by several, the sear engagment is questionable, most likely because the trigger isn't adjusted properly, or within the tolerances of the mechanism, or the the trigger may be loose.

All the 98 Mausers I have are easily cocked by lifting the bolt, then closing it, without drawing it back at all.

KB

True, when the handle is raised the firing pin cams back on the rear of the bolt and is held back, then the bolt is moved to the rear, at this time the sear engages the firing pin, then the bolt is moved forward, when the bolt is turned down the rear of the bolt no longer supports the firing pin because of alignment as with the two flat sides of the firing pin, the bolt holds the firing pin and prevents it from rotating when the handle is raised.

Sarco sold receivers left over from Midland, Gibbs, Parker Hale and Navy arms that were Mauser type receivers that used 03A3 bolts that did not fit, meaning the sear on the trigger was too tall and required removal of material to lower or a cut on the bottom of the receiver to allow for clearance. Problem, if the trigger was modified, removed and then installed in another Mauser rifle there would be a possibility the contact between the firing pin and sear would be compromised, Trigger work should be taken serious, if someone read on the Internet trigger pull can be reduced by various methods and the person doing the work files a radius on the top of the sear it is my guess the rifle could function if the bolt is pulled to the rear slowly.

Again there are two thought, some say there are two stages of cocking on the Mauser 98 type cock on open, if the firing pin does not does not go to the rear far enough to catch the sear the firing pin will not be supported when the bolt is raised then lowered.

Suggestion, remove the barreled action, install the trigger guard and raise the handle, then pull the bolt back, slowly then fast and observe what happens, if the rifle functions properly consider there is a bad fit between the action/trigger guard and stock.

For drill I would remove the safety if is not part of the bolt shroud.

F. Guffey

quote:

Originally posted by Kabluewy:
cookie,
I don't think that's right.

poppycock,
I remember having a similar issue when I adjusted the factory trigger too much. I was trying to set the sear engagment to minimum, and the trigger pull to about 3 lbs. When I got it set about where I thought it should be, the darn thing wouldn't stay cocked, just as you described. It could be also that your trigger is not attached corrctly, and may be loose.

The worst thing about the situation is that on the rifle I had and described, when I got the sear engagment adjusted where it would stay cocked, barely, when I bumped it the thing would dry fire. Luckily I discovered it before actually taking it out to hunt or to the range.

Now, when I'm adjusting any trigger, before calling it done, I work the bolt as vigorously as practical, and bump the rifle on the floor, butt down, several times to see if it will dry fire.

It's an accidental discharge waiting to happen.

I've had several Zastava Mauser actions, and IMO, the trigger is trash, and needs to be replaced - no messing around - period. The Timney for example is just too good to ignore.

Good luck, and be careful.
KB

I've had exactly the same experience when trying to adjust the trigger of my Mark X Cavalier with factory adjustable trigger. I'd suggest either increasing the weight of pull of your current trigger or replacing it with one of the good after market triggers.

Apologies to all, I must have had a brain fart. Of course the bolt does not need to be drawn back.

Hugh

You should have a sight window to visually inspect the trigger/sear engagement when adjusting the screw. You need enough engagement to safely hold when cocked.

quote:

Originally posted by hughman:
Apologies to all, I must have had a brain fart. Of course the bolt does not need to be drawn back.

Hugh

That's OK, you're Canadian.

What you are describing is actually a safety check for mauser 98's. You SHOULD be able to keep forward pressure on the bolt handle, rotate the bolt into the upward position and rotate the bolt back down. All the while keeping pressure foward. The rifles sear should engage the cocking piece.

Physical "handling" of the rifle should be done whenever adjusting the sear. I handle it equivalent to "rough" field use. Bouncing around in a vehicle, a light bump, jarring the bolt, etc.

If the problem is indeed sear engagement, you adjust this engagement between the sear and trigger using the sear engagement screw. Use the sight window to observe the engagement while adjusting and make sure the safety is fully to the rear when doing so. You must have enough engagement to hold when rough handling the firearm. If it trips merely from working the bolt hard, then you need more engagement. IIRC, specs for the weight pull adjustment on this trigger is between 3 1/2 and 5 pounds. Trying to run this adjustment below spec may further add to the problem.

Your trigger should have screws to adjust weight of pull, backlash, safety, sear engagement, and vertical play. They interact and need to be adjusted to stay in unison for a proper and safe trigger.

Good Luck

poppy,

What was the verdict?

I just finished rebuilding another pre-speed-cock Mark10 Mauser today and worked over the trigger. Got to thinking about this thread and was curious about an update.

The trigger I worked on today turned out extremely well, in fact the entire rifle turned out to be outstanding, I was well pleased. Just playing around, I was easily able to duplicate the problem you described by adjusting the trigger out of specs. You need to fully understand all the features of this trigger if you plan to make adjustments as everything need to work in unison.

If you decide to toss your Mark10 trigger, please send me a PM, I'll gladly take it off your hands. They will never make a good match trigger, but are easily turned into excellent hunting triggers that are hell for stout and super reliable above 3 1/2 pounds.

Best