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Speedlock question
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Picture of Pa.Frank
posted
I built up a 1916 Danzig into a Heavy fluted barreled 308... Timney trigger, etc.. with a 1:10 twist barrel..
It will do under 3/4" when I do my part with Sierra 190 gr matchkings, but only 1.5" consistently..

I'm thinking it is the lock time that is screwing me up..

Anyone have a suggestion for a brand of speedlock? And How difficult are they to install?

Thanks!


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Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne
 
Posts: 1984 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Don't waste your money on a speedlock. Check your bedding an float, crown, bolt handle contacting the stock, good barrel, chamber?


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5532 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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I agree with Jim. Lock time won't make an 1.5" a .5" It might make a .5 a .48".

I have MKX mausers with both normal and speedlock. I have never seen a difference


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of dpcd
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Mausers were not designed to shoot into .5 inch; too much flex in the receiver. I know, everyone else out there has one, but most won't. They are military and hunting rifles. And everything else Jim mentioned matters more; far more.
 
Posts: 17380 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of ramrod340
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quote:
Mausers were not designed to shoot into .5 inch

rotflmo Probably should have said 1.5 to 1.48 Big Grin

I have spent a lot of time and $$ trying to get hunting rifles to shoot a true .5" As stated. Rare as hens teeth. Anymore if it is a true 1" I'm happy and go home.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I would suggest you try adjusting your trigger a bit differently. Most guys adjust the over travel to near zero. This can be a mistake.

Adjust the over travel to about 1/16" to 1/8". Leave the weight alone, just the over travel.

I suggest this because you may be torquing the rifle with your trigger finger and not realize it. If the over travel is set tight, you pull the trigger, and it hits the stop instantly. This allows any further movement to be transferred to the rifle. If you have some over travel, you don't hit the stop for a fraction of a second more, and that might be enough to tighten up your groups.

I learned this from some long range shooters and damned if it doesn't sometimes make a difference.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1483 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Picture of Pa.Frank
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Thanks for the reply's guys...

Here is some more info on the rifle.. Barrel is floated, action is bedded with Acraglas steel bed... trigger is 2# and I do have a comfortable amount of over travel..bolt handle does not touch stock..

I know it isn't me, because I shoot tighter groups consistently with my Sako .375..

I'm just looking for anything I can do to improve the accuracy of this rifle.

Thanks again for the replies!


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Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne
 
Posts: 1984 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
action is bedded with Acraglas steel bed
Are you sure the bedding is correct made ?
 
Posts: 410 | Location: Finland | Registered: 31 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of Pa.Frank
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quote:
Originally posted by igorrock:
quote:
action is bedded with Acraglas steel bed
Are you sure the bedding is correct made ?


Yes, it was what was recommended by the stock manufacturer.. Regular Acraglas will not bond to that particular material.


NRA Benefactor.

Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne
 
Posts: 1984 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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