Finally my 9,3x62 project is "near" to be finished but I still don't know what to do with the rings. I've bought talley lever rings and bases (and NECG iron sights)and my smith always tell me to feel confident and that the scope will retun to zero.
I don't know why BUT..something inside me is not sure or confident and the idea of just putting millet bases and rings for 98 actions with enough locktite is getting stronger, and leave the rifle just like that, with no iron sights.

The smith don't agree with me and tell me that is a custom rifle and bla, bla, bla... and doing that I will spoil a very nice rifle, an herejy, and bla, bla...

Also I changed the 1909 action to a 1910 uruguayan action, a little more expensive that the 1909 argentinian but needs less work as it is a little more wider.

The barrel lenght is from the tip to where the ??? (what you screw into the action), 25" long (Lothar Walther).

I don't know what to do!!!!!!!!
Help me please to decide before is too late!!!!

Thanks
Lorenzo

Lorenzo,

I really don't see how going from steel Talleys to extruded aluminum crap Milletts could possibly be a move up in strength. And I've never, ever, ever heard of a Talley failing. And Ross Seyfried endorses Talleys for use on .585 Nyatis. And I've seen first-hand a set of Milletts get destroyed by less than a box of .300 Ultra Mags on a Winchester Model 70. Given all that, and since you already have the Talleys on hand, I say, use them!

Best,
Joe

Lorenzo, I use Talleys on most of my rifles and they will do a good job of returning to zero. It is something you can check once you get them on.

I have a pair of Burgess rings and shot a 5 shot group and took the scope off each time and then put it back on for each shot and it was under one MOA. Try it out, you will be surprised. I take a second scope all sighted in on trips and if something should happen I could just pop it off and put on the other.

Lorenzo,

I have a Kimber M89 BGR .375H&H that does not have iron sights, only a scope mounted with Talley rings and bases. It has been to Africa for four hunts, and no change of zero.

It is your custom rifle, so build what you like.

jim dodd

Go with the QD mounts. Also get an extra scope alreadu mounted in rings and sighted in.
ALWAYS carry both scopes in your carry on.

Thanks for the answers. It seems they MUST be Talley's. Hope that little things (levers) don't move out and that the scope hold the zero.
The smith told me that he will polish rings, bases and sights and that he will blued them using the same system that in the barrel, it seems it will be very good looking, the pad is red with a black border and the name is something like EEZ or Q-EEZ or similar, don't remember. The trigger is a Timney, the safe tang is a Voelher or something similar, it will have a special bedding and I don't know what else, the only thing that I know is that it will be the most complicated and expensive rifle I've ever had
Thanks again
LG

Lorenzo,
If you are concerned about the levers getting bumped or moved you might want to consider doing what John Ricks did to the Talleys on the rifle he built for me.

He simply screwed the levers out and replaced them with a set screw that can be turned with an Allen wrench.

It cleans up the lines of the rifle and has held with no movement after a lot of miles in the back of the Jeep and probably 250 rounds fired to date.

If you want to detach the scope you need to have an Allen wrench with you - but otherwise it works just like the levers except they won't get accidently bumped loose.

Larry,
I'd advise carrying a spare allen wrench and a few extra set screws, just to be sure. And a bottle of easly-broken Loc-tite. Barrel length is measured from the boltface (action closed) to the muzzle. I'd opt for the steel sling swivels; why risk the swivels failing when you know steel will hold up better than aluminum in almost every application?

[ 07-10-2003, 18:33: Message edited by: rootbeer ]

Lorenzo: Palmer has the best solution in using sensibly modified Talley's. I have never understood the attraction of "quick" detachable mounts -- just something else to go wrong. The modified Talley's without the levers should be strong and secure. However, no more so than a set of steel Milletts.

There are 3 basic reasons I can think of for using a QD mount:
1) you want to be able to use open as well as optical sights on the same rifle. This can be a great idea in certain situations (e.g driven hunts or hunting dangerous game). Be aware, that a rifle stocked for optical sights won't necessarily lend itself very well to the use of open sights, and vice versa. At least I have never come across a stock/open sights/scope mount combination, which was equally suited for both options.
2) It is GREAT to be able to remove your scope when you are travelling with the rifle - in particular if there are luggage handlers involved along the way...
3) It is great to be able to bring along a spare scope - already sighted in and ready to mount. Great insurance on an far-away hunting trip!

Except for a dangerous game rifle, I would probably lean towards reasons 2 & 3 rather than 1. Others may feel differently. Unless open sights are an absolute MUST for whatever reason (e.g. you like the looks of them...), I'd go with the Talleys, but without open sights. And,,, yes, I'd also remove the Talley levers and replace them with (hex-)screws. Just less to worry about in the field.

FWIW - my $.02 - mike