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I'd like to upgrade 2 of my Rem 700s with Speedlocks. Presently I'm aware of the Tubbs and the Callahan. I'm leaning to the Callahan which includes a lightweight cocking piece. Are there others? Which one is the best? Also, would the Wolf springs at 28 lbs. be an upgrade to the Tubbs or Callahan springs? Thanks in advance for your help. Third rebirth of member #117. | ||
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Gre-Tan makes a nice unit and I believe that Darryl Holland is marketing one now also. In my opinion mixing and matching springs on different brands of firing pins is a questionable practice since the manufacturers design the pins and springs as a unit. Just my opinion. You should keep in mind that any difference in any of these assemblies (including the factory Remington) is going to be measured in milliseconds. Unless you are shooting BR or really long range varmint stuff you are wasting your time...again, just my opinion. | |||
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm aware we're talking milliseconds and when I compare my favorite custom Mauser to a Rem 700 with a Tubbs speedlock I can almost count . . . one and a thousand, two . . . before the firing pin hits the primer . It's definitely slow and I wonder how much that affects my groups. Also,isn't all this comparable to hot cars, bikes etc.? Some of us are not satisfied with the status quo but are always looking for faster and better etc. I use some of my rifles for long range big game hunting and, in my opinion, every little bit helps. Third rebirth of member #117. | |||
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I would have a good smith check your rifle then because even factory 700’s have one of the fastest lock times in the industry. | |||
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If you check the specs for a factory Remington firing pin assembly you will see that the SA’s have a 2.6 millisecond lock time and the LA’s have a 3 millisecond lock time...and all of the “speedlock†guys claim to cut that by approximately 40%. Factory rifles will run between 2.5 milliseconds to 8 milliseconds in lock times. For comparison sake, an average centerfire rifle bullet is in the barrel approximately 1 millisecond after it first starts to move after ignition. | |||
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My apologies Rick. My mistake. After re-readng my second post I realized my poor writing conveyed the wrong message. What I was trying to say there was that my Mauser was very slow in comparison to my Rem's and I believe that contributes to the less than stellar accuracy in my Mauser. It must have close to 8 millisecond lock time. The Rem's I want to improve both have long actions. So I'll take that 40% reduction which should have some measureable effect on accuracy when one considers that lock time and barrel time equals time for error due to shaking . At least that's what I understand from what I read in various literature and on this board. BTW,isn't there also the short barrel school of thought that claims a shorter barrel is more accurate, not only because of less vibration or whipping action, but also because the bullet leaves the barrel quicker and thus reduces error due to shooter's motions? Third rebirth of member #117. | |||
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The one thing you will seldom find a shortage of is “theories“ and most of them are literally impossible to prove or disprove unless you have access to far more sophisticated testing equipment than I do! Personally, I believe there is allot of “placebo†effect in much of what gets sold in the firearms industry. If you truly believe what you just bought (and what the “experts“ told you would work) is going to make a difference...normally you will notice a difference, even if it really isn’t there! | |||
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Ain't that the truth.....well said /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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I have two tubbs speedlocks on pre-jocks. I have a Holland and a Gre-Tan complete syetem to replace J-Locks. Tubbs srpings touch the bolt body. I have had no problems with ignition. I would say I loose some of the 40% speed due to the spring rubbing the bolt body. Holland touches less but still does. The Gre-Tan does not. At the end of the day I doubt if the are more than a few shooters in the world that can tell the difference in a Remington. If you are getting rid of a J-lock get the whole Gre-Tan unit. If you have a pre-j lock gun. Put the money into dies, glass or reloading componets and go to the range. JMHO | |||
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If you are shooting from a solid rest, there may be some advantage to a speed-lock. If you are shooting offhand or from some other "field" position, then the extra lock time (if any) of the factory mechanism may allow you to "shake" onto the bull as often as you will shake off of it. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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I had the exact same problem with a Tubbs system. The spring looked like a worm on the move and rubbed something terrible. Gre-Tans (IMO) seem to be much better made and fitted, thought not quite as “pretty!†As for “speedâ€... perhaps its just me but I can‘t seem to perceive any difference between any of them and the factory Remington’s. | |||
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