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Reamer chatter
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I just chambered a CM barrel for 30-06. I have chambered a 100 or so barrels and used other reamers 100's of times and never had a chatter problem. This was a brand new reamer from Clymer. I tried every trick I know without success, changing feed and speeds, different cutting oil, polishing out chatter and then finishing, stoning the reamer. Any other ideas as I'm at a loss.......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Pack the flutes with grease, use moly oil, increase feed. Check your pilot diameter. Use another reamer....
 
Posts: 17385 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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same old barrel maker?
 
Posts: 6526 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by richj:
same old barrel maker?

I have used this barrel maker many times. Doesn't mean that the steel is not the problem. I think that it might be. It was tougher threading than normal......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Many folks wont use Clymer anymore, they say the quality control is just not there. If I can't get a Manson, I go to JGS. Just got one today.


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Posts: 2276 | Location: Texas | Registered: 18 May 2004Reply With Quote
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I have chambered one or two barrels. One company that I have worked for uses Clymer reamers exclusively. I have experienced exactly what you are describing. One trick I have used in this situation is to wrap a piece of paper around the reamer body. Make sure that the paper is even with the ends falling in between two flutes. This seemed to work 98% of the time.
Almost forgot... You have to remove the chatter marks from the chamber by sanding them out before you run the reamer back into the chamber.
Hope this helps,


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Posts: 495 | Location: Gillette,Wyoming | Registered: 16 May 2007Reply With Quote
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If you have the chamber to fll depth, you will have to set it back and re-chamber. If not, and I just had to do this yesterday, wrap the reamer with a full wrap of plain old waxed paper, sqirt some cutting oil in the chamber and insert the reamer with the lathe running. Don't be afraid to drive it in, it will seem to push hard, take the cut, remove and do it again until you are to depth. Try it, you'll like it. You won't believe it, it works.


Jim Kobe
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Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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If anyone would like a copy of the article,
"Correcting Reamer Chatter", e-mail your physical address to me: david@mansonreamers.com

Best regards,

Dave Manson
 
Posts: 699 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 04 November 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
If you have the chamber to fll depth, you will have to set it back and re-chamber. If not, and I just had to do this yesterday, wrap the reamer with a full wrap of plain old waxed paper, sqirt some cutting oil in the chamber and insert the reamer with the lathe running. Don't be afraid to drive it in, it will seem to push hard, take the cut, remove and do it again until you are to depth. Try it, you'll like it. You won't believe it, it works.


Jim & Dirk... I'm going out right now and try the paper trick. As luck would have it I have plenty of barrel to set back. I will let you know how it works.......Thanks......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Well, I tried the wax paper trick and it seem to help but not eliminate the problem. I am now convinced that it is a steel problem. I again ran into a problem cutting the new threads. This is something that just doesn't happen normally and it happened three times. This is the only time in 50 years of machining I have spun any thing in the chuck three times, especially while threading. Normalizing might have helped. Anyway, I'm through screwing with it. Thanks for your help guys .....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Sounds like a Walther stainless barrel???
And, you may be chambering with a steady rest????


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Posts: 1862 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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No steady rest, thru the headstock and dialed on center....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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barrel?


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Posts: 1862 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Tapper2:
Well, I tried the wax paper trick and it seem to help but not eliminate the problem. I am now convinced that it is a steel problem. I again ran into a problem cutting the new threads. This is something that just doesn't happen normally and it happened three times. This is the only time in 50 years of machining I have spun any thing in the chuck three times, especially while threading. Normalizing might have helped. Anyway, I'm through screwing with it. Thanks for your help guys .....Tom


The waxed paper has never failed me, just used it yesterday on a 257 Weatherby chambering job

Wrap the paper around the reamer at least twice, oil the chamber and push it in. It will take some effort to force it to cut at first, puh it in with the tailstock at least .100" and keep at it.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5534 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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I had what I considered hard chambering with a 9.3 barrel last year; I took it to Tri City Heat Treat over in Rock Island and they stress relieved it for me. That helped.
 
Posts: 17385 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Whenever I begin to encounter anything resembling chatter, I inspect and either resharpen or change the lead angle on the shoulder portion of the reamer, then, to correct the chatter, while applying pressure against the reamer with the tail stock, I hand turn the chuck using the chuck wrench, with the back gears engaged. That corrects the problems I've encountered in short order.


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