I'm looking into making a centerfire sporter on on a Martini Cadet-sized action and need some input. The .310 centerfire action would simply need the firing pin bushed, but I understand it has thinner sidewalls and is not as good of a choice as the later Model 12 and 12/15 rimfire actions. Can anybody verify? Also, what is the best way to convert the rimfire action to centerfire? Can it be done without changing the position of the breech block? I've seen offset firing pins are available thru Numrich. I assume you would fill and redrill a new pin hole to use these. Is that a sensible approach? Can the .310 centerfire blocks be swapped into the rimfire receivers?
Thanks for any help!

I thought this was a thread about little martini's, I just made myself one and went to read this what a bummer.

Waterfowler:
The .310 action is suitable for anything that can reasonably be made to fit in the action, with a "crawfish" on head diameter. I have two, 1 in .17 Ackley Bee, 1 in .357MAX. The MAX is about the longest case that will "make the curve" into the chamber without extensive modifictions, I think. And for me, at least, the 357 head size is about the maximum I would be comfortable with-I'd not use a 30-30 or 44 mag head size myself. The barrel shank is only 3/4" diameter.
Converting centerfire/rimfire, or the reverse is a tedious process, but can be done. Frankly, I think it's more work than it's worth. There is an NRA article, by Frank Dehass, if memory serves that goes into detail on the process. It should be availble from the NRA in reprint form. Also, there is an interesting article in Rifle magazine by Ross Syfried a couple of years ago on the little Martinis. It's worth picking up a back issue...
I really like the little Martinis. I took a nice little 6pt buck with the MAX last year, at about 125yds, one shot using factory 180gr loading.

There are several people on this forum that can help you with the Martini's in the liquefied form, but a few have made some nice rifles from the actions. I have made several conversions on the small actions over the years since they were at $15 an action from the good old days. The bolts can be exchanged, but the difference is in the lifter cam on the lever. I would suggest that you contact someone that is still working with these small actions to do the conversions. I like the 12/15 actions. The shell has to be small in order to get it into the action to load. A 5.6 X 50R RWS is about as long as can be used in the small actions.

Look for any posts by Double D on the Martini's. He has lots of info and has links to almost anything needed for these actions.

These little actions make up very nice if done properly.

[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=88180&c=557&z=1"] [/url]

I have a .22 rimfire barelled action, believed to be a 12/15. I'd like to make it into a squirrel rifle. As a target rifle, no safety was provided. How would I go about adding a safety to this rifle, or should I just keep the action open until ready to fire? I have a lathe and a milling machine, and lots of time (for this sort of stuff, never for yard work, etc.). Any articles on the subject?

Thanks for the input guys.
Ped, I'll keep my eye out for that DeHaas article, also that Rifle issue. Seyfried did an article about 15 years ago (or more) in G&A on his Martinis and I've wanted one ever since.
Les, your rifle is inspring to say the least. Who made your stocks? Is that scope base custom?
For chambering, I'm thinking along the lines of a rimmed version of the 204 Ruger necked up to 257, using 5.6x50R brass, so I think it'll fit.
I'd be interested in buying copies of articles on converting the Cadet action if anybody has them.
ALSO, I'd be interested in any actions for sale.

Johnd: If you find the above mentioned article in Rifle mag, Seyfried goes thru the process of adding a safety. With the tools you have available, it should be a relatively simple process.

Waterfowler,

I made this 17 Rem on a 15 Martini about 15 years ago for my son. It is my work 100 % on everything. I did all metal and wood when I was working, but now I am retired.
The safety is my design and it will block the trigger when opening the action. This will keep a rifle from firing when a light trigger is set down to below 3 lbs. It will slide down to block and be safe, then slide up with the finger to fire. A couple of small parts, a spring out of a watch band pin and a detent ball keeps it tight in place with a couple of notches on the inside of the cut out for the slide. I made the scope mount to use Conetrol rings. First things was to make flats on each side of the barrel after it was fitted and test fired. Next was to cut a flat on top of the barrel. I made a cutter to mill a groove on both sides of the top flat for the scope mount to slide into. Three pointed 3/16 inch set screws hold the base to the top grooves. You must leave the barrel oversize at the shank area in order to make this project. The top of the scope base was machined to be parrallel with the bore line center in place.
There are several sites to buy these actions, but they are not cheap. I bought one a couple of years back the John Appleton in W V . Thad Scott had some also and they all seem to want from $225 up just for the action.
These are fun guns to shoot. Hope this helps you decide and maybe we can help you along the way with more info.

Les

These actions were very popular in Australia
and the "Sportco" company made a little "push" safety that they fitted behind the trigger.
JL

Thanks, Pedestal and JAL. I found two issues with Seyfried articles on Martini's. One is sold out, but I ordered the other. Looking forward to it.

JohnD,
What are the dates of those issues with the Martini articles?

Waterfowler,

The two issues I found at the Wolfe Publications website are January - February 2002 (sold out) and July-August 2002.

I got the one ordered.
Thanks!