If tung oil gets sticky on hot days, how come I've never heard about it? Not pretending to be an authority on the subject, but has anyone else experienced this phenomenom?

I finished a stock using the Spar Varnish, Marine Sealer, Mineral Spirits formula and need help/advice on the last coat. I've wet sanded down to 600 using that mixture. Then, I applied a thin coating of 50/50 Spar/Sealer. Looks great. But, how do I do the final rubdown? I'd like to get a more matte finish and remove those small surface imperfection/streaks, etc. Do I just wet sand one more time then wipe with a lint-free rag? What to use for the wet sanding fluid?

This was my first stock and I'm pretty pleased although it has been hell. I think the next will be ten times easier.

Thanks,

Mike

I bookmarked a post Bill Soverns made about 2 years ago that's worth repeating (you can skip to the last 2 paragraphs for discussion of the final finish):

Stock finishing

This is by no means an all inclusive procedure. This method works for me and by no means is the only way to finish a gunstock. A list of supplies is first followed by stepped procedures.

Supplies

Wet/dry 320 grit paper
Wet/dry 600 grit paper
Wet/dry 1200 grit paper
Wet/dry 1800 grit paper
1 pint of marine varnish(McCloskey�s)
1 quart of Daly�s benmatte tung oil
Mineral spirits.
Rotten stone
Several hard felt pads
0000 steel wool
lots of clean rags or paper towels

Lets assume that the stock has been thoroughly block sanded from 100 grit up to 320 grit. Never sand a stock with out a hard backing surface! The next step is whiskering. Wet the stock thoroughly and use a hair dryer or other no flame heat source to quickly dry the wood. This will raise the fine whiskers on the stock. Rub the stock cross grain with the 0000 steel wool to cut the whiskers off. Repeat this process until no more whiskers will stand up. Usually takes about 6 times.

Sealing the wood

Get your can of marine varnish and mix equal portions of the varnish and mineral spirits in glass jar. Take a rag or brush and slop this mixture over the entire stock. This includes the inletting, barrel channel, under the grip cap, recoil pad. Let stand for an hour and wipe off the excess if there is any. Let is dry good and hard for about 4 or 5 days. Repeat the procedure and this time let dry for at least a month. The wood should be thoroughly sealed at this point.

Filling the pores

Get your mix of varnish and mineral spirits out again and pour some onto a plate. Get a piece of that hard felt and some 320 grit wet/dry paper. Dip the paper in the mixture and block sand the surface with the grain. This process creates a mixture of wood dust and finish. It should look like mud. Be sure to change your paper every so often so you are cutting well. Once the stock has been completely wet sanded take your clean paper towel and very gently wipe the surface cross grain. Wipe as though you were dusting a fine piece of porcelain. This will push the mud you created into the pores. Let dry a couple of days. Repeat this procedure until all the pores have been filled. Different stocks will take require more wet sandings than others. It will depend on how porous the wood is. The stocks I work with usually take 6 wet sandings to fill the pores. The final time you do this wipe off the stock completely with the grain. Leave no mud on the stock. Let dry for at least a week.

Building the finish

Grab that can of Daly�s Ben Matte tung oil, your hard felt pads, and your 320 grit paper. Pour some tung oil on a plate and wet sand the entire stock. Wipe completely off with the grain. Repeat process with 320. Continue wet sanding and wiping off completely with 600, 1200, 1800 grit paper. Do each stage twice.

The Rub Out

This part can be difficult and frustrating so take your time. Get your rotten stone, the tung oil, and your hard felt pad. Pour some tung oil on a plate and dip the hard felt pad in the finish�pick up some rotten stone with the wet pad. Rub with the grain VERY gently. Work a small area then move on to another. Keep dipping in the tung oil and then the rotten stone. The more stone you have on the pad the faster it cuts so watch it. This usually takes me a couple of hours so don�t rush it. When the stock has been completed rubbed out take a clean paper towel and soak it with the tung oil. Wipe the stock down with the rag to remove all the stone. Then take a dry paper towel and wipe the stock dry.
Let this sit around for 2 weeks.

The Final Finish

All of your hard work now comes down to this. This is the finish that everyone will see so take your time. Pour a little (like a teaspoon) of tung oil into a small dish( I use an ashtray). Pick up a single drop of tung oil with your finger and rub it in thoroughly. Work a small area and use only one drop at a time. You are applying very thin coats of finish here that will dry quickly and should not allow lint to collect on the surface. If your finish is very thin it should dry over night. Wait another day just to be sure. Apply another coat. You are done when the stock looks like you want it too. I usually do five hand rubbed coats but you may like the way it looks after just one or two. Its up to you. If you make a mistake, or have a run in the finish you can always rub the stock out again with your rotten stone and start the hand rubbed process over.

I usually let the stock hang around for about a month before I checker it or subject it to any kind of weather. Well I hope this has been informative. Good luck and you know where to find me if you need help.

Thanks!

However, I'd like a more matte finish than what I have now. The "Final" finish as Bill calls it is too glossy for my tastes.

You went too far! Go back and wet sand using your finish for a wetting agent, and sand back to the wood with 400 grit. Make sure you sand all the way back to the wood, wipe it off and look into the light. If you see some splotchy spots, you ain't gone far enuf, so sand some more. Next, thin your finish about 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply it liberally to the stock and hang it up until it gets a little tacky, but don't wait too long or you will have to wet sand again. When it is tacky to the touch, wipe it all off again and then leave it sit and dry. If it is still too shiny, go back and use 320 instead or you could just finish with the 400 and not wet it.

Jim

z1r, look at Jack Crawford Gunstocks i used this site and my stock looked good.

Darren

Thanks All.

Jim, Dang! I had sanded back to the wood with 400 but there were a couple of areas where I must have gotten into the wood not just to it. I should have just wiped on the finish like you said and then wiped it off. Oh well. Thanks!

Just out of curiousity, what would the result be if I wet sanded again with say 600 or even 400 and then wiped it dry immediately?

For a built up finish, wet sanding with 400 will be fine for the last sanding. If you are ambitious wet sand with 600. Look at it dry in direct sunlight and make sure you have no scratches from previous sandings. After that rub it out with automitive rubbing compound, a clean rag, and some water. I like to have two coates above the wood before I use the 400 or 600 and the rubbing compound. My sanding strategy is to remove all buggars and irreguralities. Do do any more than necessary. This will lessen the chances of breaking through. The rubbing compound will leave a satin finish. A truely dull finish is tougher. I rub out with wet fine steel wool and rubbing compound. Carefull it cuts very fast.

Well, it's a good thing this is the internet where every unknown expert can have some harsh opinions of others. Anyway, back to the question: I've finished several stocks and make quite a bit of furniture. I like analine dyes for coloring wood which is sometimes required. You can often get a fabulous grain pattern with poor color, that's where the dye comes in. For stocks I have never gone finer than 400 grit with sandpaper and have had very good results with various companies proprietary formulations including Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Using something like tru-oil and doing your final waxing with 0000 steel wool gives a lustre that I really like.

Craigster, not I. I use a polymer modified tung oil.

Scot,
I think this guy is looking for a "sanded in" finish, not a built up one. In answer to the previous thread, I think you did not sand far enough. Go back over those spots that look as though you sanded through to the wood. This is what you want,sanding to the wood, finish that is in the wood, not on the surface. You would be counteractive if you sanded with 600 and then used an automotive rubbing compound unless you wanted a shiny finish.

Jim,

You nailed it.

I did not want a built up finish. I think where I messed up at is on prior sandings. I don't think I wet sanded far enough. As a result, when i was trying to take the final coat back down to the wood, I ended up with some areas that were and some that weren't. In trying to even things out I think in some spots I got "into" the wood not just "to" it. Luckily this is just my "practice" stock. Problem is, it turned out way better than I expected and now I want it to look "right".

Next time, I think I have a much better idea as to what to do.

One last question please, when wet sanding, do you ever wipe off any of the sludge? This is where I think I got into trouble. I think I let too much finish & sludge build up.

Z1R:

Thanks for the accolade! When sanding, a lot of sludge is built up as you know. During the initial build-up and to fill the pores, a lot of excess finish is left on the outside and must be removed. A trick brought to me by a very distinguished and talented ACGG member, Kent Bowerly, was to not waste all that time and effort removing the built up finish with wet sanding. He stated simply to remove it by scraping it back down with simple tools. I use a hack saw blace with the teeth ground off and a series of Fisher scrapers for the different parts of the stock. Then the next step is wet sanding, usually with 320 grit wet or dry. Now, here is where we differ and hopefully answer your question. When I wet sand, I wipe all the sludge off. The Pores are (hopefully) all filled and by leaving the sludge on the surface to set up and dry, is a waste of time and effort. There is nothing wrong with leaving it on but I prefer my way. OK?



And Mr. SDH, I hope it is not me you refer to. I am still fuming about that comment you made about me on the Leather covered pad thread; "A PROFESSIONAL would charge...." thanks for the praise!!!!! I don't believe you had to tell anyone you vote democrat, you abviously drive a Dodge also.



Jim

Jim,

Last night I managed to finish one quarter of the stock. I've truely found out what my problem was. I was not getting into to wood, fact is I was barely reaching it. Last week, I initially tried your scrape the excess finish off trick. Oddly enough, with an old hacksaw blade. But, I was obviously being too cautious.

In technical terms I sanded the piss out of the stock last night and the area I completed looks good. Amazing what a little frustration will do.

Last week I had all but given up on doing any more stock work. Now, I really am looking forward to my next project.

Thanks,

-M

No, Jim, I wasn't refering to you. I don't remember the leather covered pad comment but I'm sure you've seen too many non-professional pad jobs.
I've several NRA member friends who vote Democrat and our Montana Senator Max Baucus (D) is the most likely candidate to get the excise tax exemtion through. And yes, it is a 2000 white Dakota with a 318.