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I have a stock std Ruger No 1 in 7mm Rem. I've bought a really nice 2 piece Aussie walnut blank & want to turn it into a full blown custom. I am seeking advice/suggestions from those who have been down this road and the many gunsmiths that frequent this forum. 1. I've seen Lothar Walter advertising tapered octagonal barrels. Anyone used these and are they any good. 2. Do the octagonal barrels create any "gunsmithing" difficulties in a Ruger 1 other than being much harder to inlet the fore-end. 3. What suggestions for scope mounting? I heard the factory system is not too good for accuracy hence the different system on the varminter version. I intend to keep mine scope only so the "quarter rib" if I can call it that would be for scope mounting only. I intend to keep it in 7mm Rem Mag as I have dies etc. for it already. 4. I have had the trigger worked by a gunsmith & while better is not as nice as the trigger on my M77 MK1 once reworked. My gunsmith likes the Kepplinger single set trigger. They are very pricey. Is is worth it to install one of these? 5. What other work should be done on the Ruger 1 other than flattening the tang safety? 6. Is there an equivalent to "truing the action" on a bolt gun for a Ruger 1? Thanks in advance for your assistance. JohnT | ||
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Actually, inletting an octagon barrel is a piece of cake with the right tool. Check out http://www.gunline.com/inletting.html Brent | |||
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John, I would think that the hangar would have to be cut off of a #1 to tighten the new barrel. Then it would be welded back on. I would not let the fact that I had a set of dies for a cartridge select the cartridge for me. The old die set system seems a little dated anyway. At present I am getting a Redding FL "S" die, Competition seating die and Lee Collet die with all new cartridges. Having suffered with a 7mm RM in a #1 for three decades with it's sloppy chamber I am glad the rifle is chambered for a rimless cartridge. | |||
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My nod would go to Penrod, as well. Back in the late 80's I did the finish work on a No. 1 project that Dressel did the stockwork, Penrod the metal and Robyn did the engraving. I was blown away by the Mark's work even then. Savage99, There wouldn't be a need to remove the barrel hanger even with a fairly substantial varmint weight barrle. | |||
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I was thinking of avoiding damage to the barrel. In fact the smaller the diameter the worse. Anyway my point is not all that relevant as it will just add some cost and not all that much considering the entire project. | |||
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JohnT, Mark Stratton also does some phenominal work on Ruger #1's. If you had to characterize Mark's work, first it would be his octagon barrels. In fact his email is octbarrel@aol.com and he teaches classes at NRA summer gunsmithing schools on that subject. The second would be truing up and working over #1's. He has built jigs just for that purpuse so the sides can be trued along with the rest of the acion. He did some work for Russel Howard from Brisbane a few years ago and I know that Russel was very pleased. Shipping a #1 over here may be more of a headache than it is worth though. Here is his site. Check out the last custom rifle and some of his articles in the "Gunmaker". | |||
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Thanks to all for your valued information. Chic, Mark Stratton's site is great. His octagonal barrels are works of art. Don't know if the budget can stretch to one of those but one can but ask. At least the Aussie peso is breathing a bit of life now. Savage 99 - the 7mm Rem fits nicely within my armoury. My mate StuC offerred me the use of his 7 x 65 reamer but I think I'll stick to the Rem. With all the attention on the Short Mags it seems a bit unloved at the moment. You never know it may become a "nostalgic" favourite. Thanks again, | |||
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The 7mm RM is not the worse belted case as brass can be made from 300 WM's. | |||
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