I have a factory Remington barrel that is .837 dia. at the muzzle and I have a brake that is .757 dia. Is there any way to install the brake to were it will look right on this barrel? Is there any other way of putting it on the barrel other than putting a short tapper on the barrel? Will this look right? Any help or pictures would be of great help.
Thanks
Lefty Lucas

Lefty

It's not like I'm a great visionary but I don't see how it would ever look right. It is either going to have a step, some goofy taper or you would have to re-taper the whole barrel. A heck of a lot of work and expense to fit a brake. Your best bet is to buy a new one.

On second thought make it with a very pronounced step, take it and win a couple of bench rest matches and in a month or too everybody will be lining up for the "Lefty Brake". By 2006 they’ll over it as and added cost accuracy option in the new Remington catalog.

Shawn

Could I discourage you form putting a brake on your rifle?

I've removed mine from my 300 Apex, and Bobc has removed his from the Whitworth he owns. They are loud and as my buddy Mark says when he stands next to me as I shoot, "That muzzle brake is one friend loos'n SOB"!

Just my opine.

Maybe the magna port idea. Ventilate the top of the barrel and counterbore back beyond the holes.

A better idea is to not mess with it. Brakes and ports tear up the ears of you and everyone around. I hate them and will never own any firearm that has one. If someone drags one out I get far away. If a hunting buddy planned to hunt with one I would find a way to avoid hunting with him. I feel that strongly. I am deaf enough already. If you want to become the social leper of your shooting circles, get a brake.

I'm pretty convinced that the ports in Magnaporting erode and catch a lot of copper over time. They're pretty loud as well.

If you have to add something of the kind, at least a brake won't deteriorate. For the record, I quit them a dozen or so years ago. When recoil makes me shoot worse as I age I will just go down a notch or two in power.

Muzzle brakes are wonderful inventions and will allow you to be a better shot, especially with heavier recoiling calibers. Wear muffs and plugs. If your "friends" don't want to shoot with you, that'll give you more time to practice and concentrate.

All that said, get one that fits your barrel contour. Most brakes are removable, so most of the guys who are bitching about them while hunting don't know what they're talking about.

quote:

Muzzle brakes are wonderful inventions and will allow you to be a better shot, especially with heavier recoiling calibers. Wear muffs and plugs.

I think it is dependant on the shooter. The recoil is not going to hurt you, especially with today's good recoil pads. So, flinching due to anticipating recoil should be less of a problem than with an old steel butplate. The nasty harsh blast may make a guy flinch too. I guess it depends on the shooter. I think the best thing to practice with reduced loads. When shooting at game have never notticed recoil.

As for the magna-port, ports eroding, I have a variation on the process that has worked for me. If you counterbore the muzzle back into non ported steel it won't be a problem. I have ported barrels in the mill with round holes. did a Remington m721 in 270 that worked great. I put nine 9/64 holes just under the front sight parallel to the bore, on both sides. I then counter bored back into undisturbed barrel. Just used a twist bit to conter bore. The barrel had a bulge about 1" back from the muzzle. Just did it on a lark to see how it worked out. Later I cut and crowned it. It shot straight with the ports. At any rate you could watch bullets hit through the scope. It was too loud for me though.

Might be worth messing with as a home workship deal. Use an old barrel that you intend to toss or re-crown. I see no reason why one could not do it with a drill press. IF you did you lay out carefully it would look fine. I did the counter bore in a lathe. I bet you could do it with a hand drill and stop collar. The bore should guide it straight. Don't know about the sucking in the bit effect though.