I am going to do a little hobby bluing. Just wondering what the recommendation is for grit size before bluing. I know all about the theory of polish with each grit size to remove the previous scratches. Which scratch do you generally stop at before bluing.

Much of this will depend on the "polish" you're looking for.....I really don't care for the "Weatherby polish"....something that glares all over the canyon......I stop at a 320 grit finish!

Dear 22WRF:

I agree with Vapodog at stopping at 320 grit for rust bluing on most parts.

On the other hand, if I am rebluing an aperture sight and/or bottom metal, I go to a wet sanded (using oil) 400 grit. It takes a little longer for the rust bluing compound (I use Mark Lee) to bite, but the finish ends up a beautiful dark grey/black.

The 320 grit finish will produce a darker almost black color after 8-10 applications and cardings.

I have experimented with a 220 grit and a sandblasted finish, but they come out too dark and too dull. 320 grit and 400 grit have the right "glow" in my experience.

Of course if you are planning on hot salts bluing then the sky's the limit on fineness of grit finish.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

I polish to 400 minimum to make sure all the scratches are removed and not hidden. Then after initial cleaning, sand blast with 320 grit silicon carbide at low pressure (20-25 psi). Then final clean and rust blue from there.

Regarding Chris's post on different colors with different grits...I think that's the fault of the solution, the cleaner, or a combination of the two. The only difference I see with bluing coarser grits is I can see scratches through the blue in good light.

OK, after grit size who polishes with the axis of the bore and how many "shoeshine" the barrel?

Dear Roger:

No, there is nothing wrong with the Mark Lee solution or my preparation.

The fineness of the polish to some degree controls the "corrosive" nature of the Mark Lee bluing. I can't speak to other rust bluing solutions, since I have not used them.

I experimented with a 600 grit and 1000 grit finish, and the rust bluing solution would not "take".

Furthermore, some of the German gunsmiths used to polish steel bolt handles to such a high polish, that they would not rust even with normal usage.

Of course the fineness of the polish will affect the ability of the solution to act on the steel, and thereby change the color. I've done it.

Also, the number of times you soak it, boil it and card it affects the final color. I have found that 7-10 applications gives me the color I want. Less than 7 applications, and the color is too light and sometimes not uniform.

Over 10 applications doesn't add anything in my experience.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

I am using Gun Goddess. I am going to use gasoline for a first degrease, and dawn dishsoap to clean after that. And I am going to use a damp basement shower for my rust box. And soft steel wool for carding. We will see what happens.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
and how many "shoeshine" the barrel?

Never.

FWIW, I polished a barrelled action a few years ago using increasing grades, ended up doing the final polish with jeweller's rouge on a wheel, followed by hand polish also using rouge (one of my Grand Dads was a jeweller) - kept all the straight edges, curves and so perfect. It took me hours.

In the white, the whole thing looked absolutely beautiful. Like the metal on a brand new diamond ring.

When it was blued, it looked weird. It looked like blued glass.

Took to it again with 400 grit, reblued and it came out looking like a rifle.

Dear 22WRF:

Save yourself a whole lot of hassle, and just degrease your metal once with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, which you can pick up at Walmart.

You'll have to de-grease the steel wool, too.

I soak mine in acetone in an old jar, and then squeeze them out between paper towels. Lastly, I let them dry out on clean old newspaper.

I recommend getting a whole box of new latex gloves, that fit you properly.

If you don't like heat, then use a pack of brand new dish washing gloves with the stippled fingers.

The key is metal preparation, keeping it clean and oil free. Also, keep all your equipment clean, and don't get fingerprints on anything you want to blue. If you do, don't panic though, send me a PM, and I'll show a trick to get around it.

Lastly, I found 0000 steel wool to work the best when carding parts.

Have fun.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Hello?

Gasoline?

Hot water and Simple Green will degrease just fine.

Plenty of machinists use Simple Green.

I've used Simple Green with no problems.

Good luck...

flaco

Chris,

Didn't mean to offend.

Mark Lee's solution will give a nice blue given enough time and applications. Glad you like it...

quote:

Originally posted by new_guy:

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
and how many "shoeshine" the barrel?

Never.

My thought too but I have seen my share.