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Here is an easy way to improve a mauser trigger. It is an old-time technique and forgive me if its common knowledge. Its done by welding an extension onto the existing trigger stop that contacts the bottom of the sear block. The normal modification calls for installing a set screw through the extension in order to pre-load the trigger past the first stage and partly into the second stage. I managed to get the right amount of tension without a set screw by angling the extension upward slightly. Its no canjar, but its nice and crisp now whereas it was bad enough before to put my finger to sleep. Here is a picture. - John
[This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] | ||
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No picture yet, John. But keep trying, I would be interested in seeing it. - Dan | |||
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Damn I hate computers! Anyway, if you have access to a welder, this modification is easier than posting pictures. BTW, always check a modified trigger for safety by slamming the bolt closed a few times and testing the safety mechanism after the work is done. Any set screws used should be epoxied in place after adjustment. As long as you don't try to get it too light, its a safe modification. - John [This message has been edited by Beelzebubba (edited 03-13-2002).] | |||
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Thanks John, it worked this time. I've added it to my tech files for future referance. I agree about the computers though, I still haven't figured out how to post a pic. - Dan | |||
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Thank you, I have 4 or 5 Mauser triggers laying around. I will definatly give it a try! | |||
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