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Can rear bolt play be reduced
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Gents while there should be "some" play on bolts should one try to reduce it to prevent trigger setup movement i.e. causing inconsistent let-off.
If so what would the most reliable method to achieve this, i.e. half moon sleeves sweated on at the rear and front of bolts?

Thanks for feedback in advance
 
Posts: 15 | Location: South Africa | Registered: 10 May 2013Reply With Quote
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That was pretty common on Rem 700's. The bolts were bushed and then machined to close tolerance fit to the rear bridge.


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5535 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Gents while there should be "some" play on bolts should one try to reduce it to prevent trigger setup movement i.e. causing inconsistent let-off

I've never had that issue. At least not that I knew. For a hunting rifle I sure wouldn't worry about it. I did have a 700 years ago that was treated like Jim mentioned but it was a BR rifle.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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PT&G will make you a bolt with the body diameter that you want. These are really for BR rifles not hunting rifles though as Paul said.
 
Posts: 8352 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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If you are using a modern double lever trigger, there is no play attributed to bolt slop so forget about it. On military direct pull triggers, yes there is. As stated, for hunting rifles, who cares? I have also added sleeves to bolts to tighten them up but not for hunting.
 
Posts: 17495 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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On rifles with a lot of play at the rear of the bolt, I tighten them up by installing a pair of bumps which come into play only when the bolt is turned down. I cut two shallow transverse dovetail slots, one on each side of the bolt, in line with the locking lugs and install dovetailed sight blanks (I use the dovetail stock from Brownells). The bolt is then set up in the lathe and these bumps are turned to a close fit in the receiver bridge.
I have used this system on Remingtons, Winchesters, Howas, Rugers, MRC's, Sakos, and P14 Enfields. Works well. Regards, Bill
 
Posts: 3869 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):

For a real radical "fix" on 98's, you can turn a slave to desired diameter,. place it in the raceway at the bridge location. With suitable clamp, heat up the bolt side of the bridge while applying consant clamping pressure...lots of clean up afterwards...I've only done it a few times, but quite effective


Tom Burgess once told me about using the same method of heating the bridge and using a press to "squish" it down onto a mandrel to tighten the bore back there.




Aut vincere aut mori
 
Posts: 4870 | Location: Lakewood, CO | Registered: 07 February 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
On rifles with a lot of play at the rear of the bolt, I tighten them up by installing a pair of bumps which come into play only when the bolt is turned down. I cut two shallow transverse dovetail slots, one on each side of the bolt, in line with the locking lugs and install dovetailed sight blanks (I use the dovetail stock from Brownells). The bolt is then set up in the lathe and these bumps are turned to a close fit in the receiver bridge.I have used this system on Remingtons, Winchesters, Howas, Rugers, MRC's, Sakos, and P14 Enfields. Works well. Regards, Bill

I like this method tu2
 
Posts: 174 | Location: Lakewood | Registered: 02 May 2006Reply With Quote
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