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Gents while there should be "some" play on bolts should one try to reduce it to prevent trigger setup movement i.e. causing inconsistent let-off. If so what would the most reliable method to achieve this, i.e. half moon sleeves sweated on at the rear and front of bolts? Thanks for feedback in advance | ||
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One of Us |
That was pretty common on Rem 700's. The bolts were bushed and then machined to close tolerance fit to the rear bridge. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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I've never had that issue. At least not that I knew. For a hunting rifle I sure wouldn't worry about it. I did have a 700 years ago that was treated like Jim mentioned but it was a BR rifle. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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PT&G will make you a bolt with the body diameter that you want. These are really for BR rifles not hunting rifles though as Paul said. | |||
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If you are using a modern double lever trigger, there is no play attributed to bolt slop so forget about it. On military direct pull triggers, yes there is. As stated, for hunting rifles, who cares? I have also added sleeves to bolts to tighten them up but not for hunting. | |||
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On rifles with a lot of play at the rear of the bolt, I tighten them up by installing a pair of bumps which come into play only when the bolt is turned down. I cut two shallow transverse dovetail slots, one on each side of the bolt, in line with the locking lugs and install dovetailed sight blanks (I use the dovetail stock from Brownells). The bolt is then set up in the lathe and these bumps are turned to a close fit in the receiver bridge. I have used this system on Remingtons, Winchesters, Howas, Rugers, MRC's, Sakos, and P14 Enfields. Works well. Regards, Bill | |||
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Tom Burgess once told me about using the same method of heating the bridge and using a press to "squish" it down onto a mandrel to tighten the bore back there. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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One of Us |
I like this method | |||
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