I am nearly ready to begin applying finish to a nice stock that I have a tremendous amount of time and not an inconsequential amount of money (to me) into. The wood has nicely figured crotch radiating through the but but is rather plain (though very straight grained) through the grip and forearm. I would like to achieve the rich deep tones that I see in the work of many of the best stockmakers--a good example is the superb 416 by Burgess et al. currently on this forum.

In Westbrook's book, several of the stockmakers he interviewed suggest using various combinations of red and brown dyes to warm the color of the finished stock--although still in the raw I don't think my blank has that color "naturally." However--the thought of applying a dye to a stock that I have spent so much time on frankly scares the bejeezus out of me.

Is there any objective way to decide if dying is necessary and ,if so, which dyes to apply? If dyes are to be used, is there a clear concensus as to what stage of the finish process they should be applied? Can one "work up" to a color by applying several light coats and stop when the desired color is achieved? As I said, the stock makers in Westbrooks book seem to disagree on both the necessity for and application of dye.

Any advice or references would be greatly apprecieted.

Jay Kolbe

The problem with staining is that the end grain absorbs stain much more than the rest of it so it is difficult to get good results. Browning always liked to put a bit of color in the finish. Personally I like light colored stocks so that's not a problem for me!!

You did not say what kind of wood it is. I am assuming it is walnut?? If so, be advised that if you fill the pores of the wood well after whiskering the wood, then finish it with a linseed oil based finish, it will naturally darken several shades as it ages after finishing, with no stain at all. You can get some idea of the final appearance when you wet it for whiskering, but it will be darker from the oil than from water. Cherry will darken also from oil. I often use cherry for muzzleloader stocks. Looks great with brass or silver furniture.

Maple tends to remain pretty blonde so it must be stained if you want a tasteful color.

You could use Plinktons Spirit Stains available from Brownells. Expensive. You can work up on the depth of color you want. Some will come off with the top coat regardless of how long you let it dry...

Solar-Lux dye is also good but the results can be monotone. You could apply Solar-lux then sand lightly to remove some stain on the "highlights" of the grain then topcoat.

Fellow member SDH mentioned he did a write up on his method of staining stocks in the Journal of Custom Gunsmithing but I haven't found it yet. His work always looks great.

Do you have a piece of the walnut to experiment with??? What sealer are your using? What topcoat???

The stockmakers in the Wesbrook book are working with very high end blanks I suspect- even still, one of them mentioned the shocking notion of staining (really toning) a $1500 blank...

Staining and finishing a rifle stock is an art in and of itself...

I was just at Denis Olsen's shop yesterday and he said that he rerely stains unless a customer wants to match a certain maker's factory wood--he had a bottle of "pre-64 Winchester" stain by plinkertons I believe. I wish I had the Westbrook book immediately handy (I'm on the road) byt he recommended a red/brown mix to "tone" the stock--I would appreciate additional input.

Not that I done much stock work, if you don't have a test piece, maybe you could test in the barrel channel?

it is true that the end grain odf wood will absorb stain much more readily than the rest will. that happened to me once.

the solution for me was to first apply a few thin coats of boiled linseed oil cut with turpentine. after those coats began to absrb evenly (left to dry completely inbetween), I applied an alcohol-based stain for the color I wanted. I then finished with boiled linseed oil uintil I had the finish I wanted. I am completely happy with the results, but this was for a mil-surp rifle.

Hey snowcat

I've done a search for Westbrook and "gun" or "stock" or "rifle" with no results...

Could you post more complete info about this book? It sounds like one I'd like to get!

jpb

jpb,

David L. Wesbrook
"Professional Stockmaking"

I purchased it from Wolfe Pub. Co., Prescott, Arizona 86301

Bob.

The Wesbrook book is titled "Professional Stockmaking" and is still available at Brownells:

#968-879-356

Get the old classic "companion" book by Alvin Linden "Stockmaking" while you are there.
Linden walks you through layout and inletting a square blank Wesbrook continues detailing the inletting with specific recommendations of which tools to use then moves right into a detailed treatise on sanding and shaping. He allows several professional stockmakers to give an essay on their method of finishing a fine rifle stock at the end of the book...

Follow both books to the letter and you may turn out a usable stock from a blank on the first try.