THe subject of *just* suitable M-98s and ignoring the rest would (and has) take several books to describe. It's far beyond the capability of one web site.
Send me your email and I'll send you a zip file of general, and some specific, information on Mausers.
My favorite and one of the least expensive and most common suitable for custom rifles are commercial FN Deluxe & Supremes. Little gunsmithing required, already finely finished, maybe a new trigger or safety. I also like Brno made G33-40's for lightweight rifles and Mexican Mausers for their small ring/medium length although they require lots of additional work. Some folks like military DWM Argentine 1909's because of their fine finish, close tolerances and hinged bottom metal but they allegedly are soft. Of the more common commercial Mauser derivatives, I prefer the various Brno's & older M-70's.
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002
I believe the best bang for the buck is the VZ 24. These are available in large quantity, dirt cheap and of good prewar quality and metallurgy. They are usually not pristine, but any of these actions will be totally rebuilt as part of a custom, so it makes little difference in the end, unless they are pitted.
Keep in mind that price is not an inconsequential issue. You can buy a good VZ24 for $65. My favorite custom is an old 257 G33/40 that was built in the '50's. If I could find an action like this to use, it may well cost over $800. It would still require the same work. For $700+, I would have a small ring 98 which weighs a little less.
Posts: 1238 | Location: Lexington, Kentucky, USA | Registered: 04 February 2003
Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Mauser Bolt Actions" has a listing of the ones he considers the most desireable for building custom rifles. I'm sure JBelk will have some valuable info for you.
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002
Given that you'll need a new stock and barrel, and you'll probably want to drill for scope mounts, bend down the bolt handle, do some machining on the bolt face, and alter or replace the military trigger, are you really saving money by buying a military Mauser? Are you figuring in the cost of altering the magazine too?
By the time you've got that much time and money in the project, are you going to be kicking yourself because you still have nagging doubts about the metallurgy?
Why not go with a brand new Charles Daly Mauser action for $300-$425, or a CZ Mauser action for $500-$620. You can also get a pre-64 (CRF) Winchester Model 70-type action from Montana Rifle for $350-$500. Unless you're a gunsmith or great buddies with one, I think this sporterizing project is not going to be a big money saver for you.
I don't want to poo poo your ideas, but I think you'll be shooting sooner and be happier with the result of your custom project if your starting point is a new action or at least a rifle of current manufacture.
H. C.
Posts: 3691 | Location: West Virginia | Registered: 23 May 2001
I agree with Henry C. I consider myself pretty good about finding what deals are around my area, I have passed on some great ones :-( but gotten others. I have them finishing a custom for me right now, going to be about 725 into it when all is said and done. But I have calculated the cost to finish my other 2 actions into complete customs and it would be far cheaper to just buy a new cz550 for instance and have it rebarreled and rechambered.
If you have an action already, or can get it real cheap, and want to take a stab at the work yourself it is fun. On my small ring 98 I have done the safety conversion. Paid them to do the bolt, I will attempt the Timney install, I'll jewel the bolt. That's the extent of my abilities for now though. Good luck with the project!
Red
Posts: 4742 | Location: Fresno, CA | Registered: 21 March 2003
Craigster, I would guess the JK book is written as a series of lectures notes copied from a notebook and sent to a publisher that did hands off editing.
I am an engineer that bought a Mauser 3.5 years ago and myself and two partners have outfitted two garages as machine shops to sporterize Mausers. I was tormented with the JK book, because I knew there was useful information in the book, but it was always incomplete and un organized.
If one reads Walsh's book [he is a retired engineer] on sporterizing Mausers, it seems to have been written out of frustration over the JK book, but maybe I am just reading that into it.
Walsh does not just vaguely reference a tool. If he mentions one, he gives a source or a measured drawing on how to build it.
Who said anything about saving money or short time frames? I have other rifles, this would be for fun and has no time frame attached, and because it would be different.
Posts: 1558 | Location: NC | Registered: 10 June 2002
quote:Originally posted by HenryC470: Given that you'll need a new stock and barrel, and you'll probably want to drill for scope mounts, bend down the bolt handle, do some machining on the bolt face, and alter or replace the military trigger, are you really saving money by buying a military Mauser? Are you figuring in the cost of altering the magazine too?
By the time you've got that much time and money in the project, are you going to be kicking yourself because you still have nagging doubts about the metallurgy?
Why not go with a brand new Charles Daly Mauser action for $300-$425, or a CZ Mauser action for $500-$620. You can also get a pre-64 (CRF) Winchester Model 70-type action from Montana Rifle for $350-$500. Unless you're a gunsmith or great buddies with one, I think this sporterizing project is not going to be a big money saver for you.
I don't want to poo poo your ideas, but I think you'll be shooting sooner and be happier with the result of your custom project if your starting point is a new action or at least a rifle of current manufacture.
H. C.
Hear, hear. - mike
Posts: 6653 | Location: Switzerland | Registered: 11 March 2002
Well, I'll take a stab at it. Any of the pre-war sporter Mausers are usually OK. The VZ24's are a great bargain for the money, G33/22 and G33/40's make up nice light weight rifles, as do the Mexican Mausers (my personal favourite). Pretty much anything with FN on it will be OK, and the Argentines and Peruvians ae beautiful. As to the hardness of the last two (and the early Mexicans for that matter) all that can be tested, and if not in the condition you want, re-heattreated. Yes, it's not the cheapest way to go (although it can be, depends on how fancy you want to be and how much work you can do yourself) but it is fun and satisfying. Everbody and their dog has a remugerchester, but a customised Mauser is done to what you want, not some bean counter. FWIW - Dan
[ 03-26-2003, 19:08: Message edited by: dan belisle ]
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001
As far as I can tell, FN changed from the "C" ring near the beginning of 1949. It seems it happened about the same time they quit putting in the clip guide and clip guide boss, but I have seen a couple with clip guides and a split ring.
To answer your question: The Model 1948 had a "C" ring, some 1949s didn't, and all 1950 and later were split rings.
That applies to *commercial* actions. Military M-98s made through the 1950s still had a "C" ring and only became split after about 1959. It's fairly common to find 1924 FN Venuzuelans with both "C" and non-"C" rings. That contract seems to have ended in 1962.
The book is titled "Mauser M98 & M96, How To build Your Favourite Custom Rilfe" by R.A. Walsh. The ISBN # is 1-879356-52-X. It is published by Wolfe Publishing. - Dan
Posts: 5285 | Location: Alberta | Registered: 05 October 2001
quote:Originally posted by dan belisle: The book is titled "Mauser M98 & M96, How To build Your Favourite Custom Rilfe" by R.A. Walsh. The ISBN # is 1-879356-52-X. It is published by Wolfe Publishing. - Dan
Thanks Dan!
jpb
Posts: 1006 | Location: northern Sweden | Registered: 22 May 2002
![[Confused]](images/icons/confused.gif){kind=icon}
