I have a Model 99 Savage Takedown in .22 Savage Hi Power which has been altered to fixed barrel. It is adequately accurate,
which several deer would testify to from my freezer, were they able to. However, I have no idea how this transformation was performed.

I know that Townsend Whelen recommended changing takedown models to fixed barrels and I believe that Roy Dunlap referred to the
process in his gunsmithing book, but I am in Florida, where I will be for the rest of the month and have no access to reference
material, except on the internet.

Does anyone know how this transformation is carried out?

No but I would like to meet whomever did it so I can slap him silly. Which he was. I have some of Whelen's and Dunlaps books and have not seen the reference.

The 99 uses an interrupted thread, held in the assembled position with a key on the fore end iron that marches a slot on the barrel.

Thee is no provision for wear and after being taken apart time after time, the whole system becomes a bit loose.

I think a TD system is "demonstrated" to buddies and if just taken down as needed, would have a decent lifetime.

I like takedowns and make it a point to provide for any possible wear on the ones I build.

All the ones I have had were full thread; had one once in 303 Savage and a .410 barrel. A better system than the Winchester interrupted thread. You use the fore end as a tool to unscrew it. If a hack wanted to make one permanently fixed, he might peen the threads, or the shank; quite ill advised if you ask me. Modern guys, might loc tite the barrel in; a better solution, to a non existent problem.

Savage offered the service to make them solid at one time do not know how they did it.

The take downs had a habit of developing excess head space so it was needed on some of them.

I sent a 250-3000 to them to have it preformed but it was stolen in route.

It would break of the case head after first reloading.

Merely affixing the barrel solidly would not correct a headspace problem; had to be more to it than that alone.

FWIW, I have a solid frame 1941 RS that has a barrel with the slot and "TAKEDOWN -->" stamping.

The s/n on the receiver makes it a 1941 but have been assembled after WWII started with whatever parts they had at the time.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
All the ones I have had were full thread; had one once in 303 Savage and a .410 barrel. A better system than the Winchester interrupted thread. You use the fore end as a tool to unscrew it. If a hack wanted to make one permanently fixed, he might peen the threads, or the shank; quite ill advised if you ask me. Modern guys, might loc tite the barrel in; a better solution, to a non existent problem.

Ya know..I thinkl I stand corrected..thanks

I have a 99TD that shoots under a half inch, not just now and then but every time and with most loads, Anyone close enough to Filer can come by and shoot it...Not enough money to buy it however...Ive never taken it apart, scared to, its in beautiful condition and Ive shot deer and a couple of cow elk with it, plus PG..Ive also won a ton of turkey, bacons and hams with it and a few high dollar bets.

Without taking it down, how can I tell if its full thread or interrupted thread, the forend screw has two screws, and the disconnecter slides back and fourth...

I realize its one of a kind, at least to the best of my knowledge and Ive played with more 99s than most..Im afraid if I take it down it could very well mess with its outstanding accuracy..

You don't have to take it down; I guarantee it has full threads. Duane knew that too.

Interrupted threads were used until 1920-ish. The Model G's, introed in 1920, all used full threads. Sloppy TD threads today can be tightened simply by lightly judiciously peening the threads with a small ball peen hammer. It takes a dab hand, and I'm talking very lightly tapping the threads- but it works. I've done so on a couple so far, and it works. Keep the threads clean and oiled/greased, and minimize the taking down and they'll give several lifetimes of service. My collection of more than a few of the little Savage beasties is comprised of nothing but takedowns.

Savage 1899/99 bolts were the same bolt for all calibers, and were made in varying lengths. I've noted them to vary as much as .050" in length. The way they set headspace at the factory: the final assemblers had bins of different length bolts in front of him. He took a barreled receiver and mixed and matched bolts until proper headspace was received. It saved a lot of time in the manufacturing process to not have to maintain excruciating tolerances with barrels and receivers. Probably overly simplified explanation, but it is as told me by an old Savage employee who was an inspector at the plant.

I bet a lot of the guns that turn up today with gross headspace were victims at some point of Bubba just sticking any old bolt in a gun, not knowing about the dramatic differences in bolt lengths.

Can you post a picture of one with interrupted threads? Just that I have never seen one.

My dad has collected 99s his whole life and the only one he’s never had was a 22 Hi Power. For his 70th birthday I found and got him one. It was a takedown and had interrupted threads - 1/4 turn to remove barrel. Indexed with a slot in barrel and receiver and corresponding spline in the forearm, as mentioned earlier in the thread.

It’s at my dad’s now so can’t take any pictures.

Dpcd

Roland has a 22 HP, it's a 1918-19 serial. I'll get him to take a pic.

Cool; learned something.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Cool; learned something.

Me too, and I've owned a take down Savage for 50+ years. I tried to remove the barrel once but it was so tight I decided to leave it alone. But good to know it has interrupted threads if I ever try again.

Not necessarily; all I have ever seen are full thread; but as gn said above, up to 1920 they were interrupted.
If yours was too tight, you use the fore end as a wrench.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Not necessarily; all I have ever seen are full thread; but as gn said above, up to 1920 they were interrupted.
If yours was too tight, you use the fore end as a wrench.

It's a 1912 vintage; I used the fore end but it was tight enough that I decided that my curiosity wasn't worth potential damaging my rifle. And yes, until the barrel is off, it's all assumptions ...