What do I need to build this Peice? I would like to have one built on a 700 action. I will be purchasing a gun for the action only, so which caliber do I buy? I guess what I am asking is where do I start out? Can someone give me advice from start to finish? There are several reputible smith s in Missouri I could choose from. However, I have used David Clay in Texas before and really liked his work. I will most likely have to save little for the optics. But I am ready to proceed now on the build. As far as barrels. I am kinda in the dark on which is the best i know of all the reutible ones. And what length is optimal could I go with a 24" or 26" with a clay or vias break installed? Please help me with my Build. Thanks

I have one I built on a Remington action. In all honesty I wouldn't waste the time on the Remington action especially since you would be buying a rifle just for the action. Get an action from Stiller, or Surgeon as they will already have all the dimentions correct and will not require the additional machiening that the Remington will. You will be money ahead at the end of your build. As for barrels, I have been very happy with the Broughton barrels that I have been using. All rifles I have built on them have shot under .5 MOA, and my .338 Lapua Improved is giving groups in the high.2's and low .3's while fireforming. Length will be dependent on what you are building the rifle for. That being said, I would opt toward at least a 27" barrel for this cartridge. If you can go longer as for a stationary position rifle do so.

I am building one now on a SAKO mod 995 in 30-378. The magazine box, trigger, stock will remain the same. I am using a 27" Rock Creek barrel, fluted, 11 degree crown, 1 in 10 twist.
I will open up the barrel channel on the original stock, and rebed the new barreled action. Only other additions: Vais removable muzzle brake, and welding on a 1/3 inch augmentation on the recoil lug (I am not happy with the sako's recoil lug, too small by far)

The 30-378 was a 1/2 minute of angle rifle, but I decided to rebarrel to 338 lapua because I bought 2 of the sako's, they were on sale for about $600.

I think a 27" barrel is the minimum I would use, the Lapua has a lot of powder capacity, and a 27 or even 28" barrel maximizes velocity.

If you can find a sako 995, that would be an ideal starting point, because there is no need to do any bolt work, magazine work, trigger etc. The action is borrowed from the TRG-S, viz their sniper rifle, so it doesnt need to be blueprinted.
The 700 will have to be blueprinted, re-stocked and, most important, the boltface will have to be re-worked to accomodate the larger .590 rim. Make sure the 700 is a long (3.4" mag box) action, and has a magnum (.532) boltface

Other barrel manufacturers I have experience with who do very good work include Krieger, who, like Mike Rock, make an excellent single cut-rifled barrel. Pac Nor made a really very nice polygonal barrel for my 300 wby, but not as accurate as the cut rifled barrels, IMHO. But the differences become evident only at extreme long range (>500 yds). And the polygonal barrel is really extremely easy to clean, hardly fouls at all as it has no sharp edges. lothar walther made an excellent barrel for my 404 jeffrey. Other barrel makers with a reputation for accuracy include Lilja, Hart, Shilen, but I have no personal experience with them
Good Luck!
And you may wish to BUY your reamer if your gunsmith doesnt have it (not much different than renting it, and then you can consider being part of the AR Reamer Library!
(PM me if you are interested in the reamer library, a way for AR members to share/borrow reamers)