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Just pondering a more advanced shop project. I have seen lots of literature, designs, drawings, etc for falling block actions. Has anyone actually built one that works (well)? These appear to be fairly simple machines and linkages, but engineering says it is not always as it appears. A quick look at some of the more recent patent drawings available show some marked differences in how things are manipulated within the action. Are there certain designs that work better than others? For example, I know The Ruger #1 action tilts the block 3 degrees to make it easier to lower the block after firing. Are broaches necessary for finishing the breechblock hole in the action, or are there alternative ways of getting the block to action fit correct? Would it be acceptable for someone with access to CNC machine tools to design in a small constant radius rather than square corners? With a small diameter finishing mill, one could leave a small radius in the corners of the hole and put a matching radius on the block corners for a real nice fit - and still finish it all on the mill w/o using a broach, etc. Maybe this would even enhance smoothness of operation? Like I said, this is all conceptual now - I'm trying to find a 'simple' action to build as a project. Of course, it will have to shoot when it's done, otherwise I could whittle one out of wax. Maybe someone has been down this road already? Are there any reasons all the designs feature square corners in the action other than ease of manufacturing with older technology? maxman | ||
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Quote: Even with replacing the square corners with radiused corners, you'll still have a problem accessing the depth of the cut with standard endmills, plus with your tool hanging out that far, it's gonna chatter like crazy, leaving very poor surface finishes and equally bad tolerances. As a for instance, let's say you'd like 1/8 radiuses in the corners of your action. This means that you'll not be able to use any endmill larger than 1/4" to mill this out. When determining how far you can extend your endmill out safely, you have to keep in mind the rule of 5 times the diameter equals the max length of extension. In other words, your endmill could not extend past 5 times the diameter of itself out of the milling holder, or collet. So, your endmill's max extension could only be 1.25", but that doesn't mean that you could make a cut of that depth, merely you could be cutting near the end of the endmill with it being supported that far back. With only 1.25" max extension, and max cutting area probably being more like .750", you'd have a hard time cutting any of the falling block actions that I've seen. Your only other chance would be to greatly increase the size of the radius in the corners to allow you to use an endmill of 3/4" or larger, but this would force you to widen the receiver considerably in order to compensate for the added radi that would now most likely be intersecting your breach face. As rude and crude as broaching may first appear, it is still very efficient and handy at removing material that otherwise can't be dealt with, plus it leaves a very nice finish when done properly. One other option would be to Wire EDM the receiver, but even after you did that, you'd still need to run a reciprocating hone of some sort in there to smooth the surface up. There's definitly more than one way to skin a cat, but with the use of the orginal designs out there, broaching is about as good as it gets for now. However, it's about high time for a new and improved falling block action anyways, maybe it could eliminate the broaching as well. | |||
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Ill have to agree with alot of what Matt is saying. Your tool deflection and chatter would be bad. Broaching can be very accurate, and like many operations your set-up is where it counts. | |||
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It is not hard to cut a square hole with a lathe however it is time consuming. It can be done by using the apron as a shaper with a boring bar,the hole is finished by using laps.I have used this method for holes as deep as 1 1/2",there is no reason this method could not be used for a deeper hole. WC | |||
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<JOHAN> |
maxman I know of a gunsmtih in Sweden who built a action simular to the Hagn action buy hand. The block was fitted with files and hole in the action was filled out. It takes time. Broatching the hole is one of the quickest methods. What action do you have in mind? / JOHAN | ||
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Suggest you find a copy of the book "Mr. Single Shot's Book of Rifle Plans" by Frank DeHaas. See this site: http://www.dehaas.com/guns.html . I believe he called one of his designs a "bank vault" action and it was designed to be able to be made in a typical home shop without a lot of machine tools other than a lathe. Also seem to remember that in Gun Digests from the 1980s that some firm manufactured them for a while. | |||
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Here's a book from Home Shop Machinist: http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/store/index.cfm?curlocation=2 | |||
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Like JohnD, I have Mueller's book. Very short book with lots of info on every page. real guns review of Mueller's book, "Building a Single Shot Falling Block Rifle Action " | |||
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For a view of a number of home-built and/or very small production falling-block actions, and a text discussion of how their features vary & succeed or don't, you mght try to locate a copy of "Single Shot Actions - Their Design & Construction" by Frank de Haas, 1986 AC | |||
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Frank loaned me one of his "bank vault" round block actions for several months in 1991-2. Serial number 3, IIRC, it was in .444 Marlin and had the "side-swinging" hammer (swings horizontally rather than vertically). It was very well and carefully built, but tricky to use. Unless manipulated with considerable care, the hammer was difficult to cock. On balance, it was not a pleasant action for me to use, but it was hell for stout! If I were to build such an action, I would modify the design to use either a more traditional vertical-swinging hammer, or perhaps some sort of striker assembly that worked through the block rather than being totally contained in it. AC | |||
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My lord! did you see the material and the hardness of the reciever that boy did on that action.... 440C at RC 60, I do not think that was such a good idea. | |||
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Not that broaching is rude/crude - I just don't have that kind of equipment! It will certainly shape and finish a hole very well. I have thought about fitting the block and the hole completely by hand with files, but that seems like a lot of work and possibility for a slip and screwing up of the part. I have looked at the book by Mueller, which is what started this whole idea for me - thanks for nothing Google I have heard of the book by de Haas, and probably should review it as well. I just keep thinking that there has to be a good falling block design that can be built without special equipment, like broach pullers or EDMs. Of course, EDM might not be a bad way to go, since it will be virtually finished when the hole is made, but I would have to farm out this operation. Tool stickout will be a concern, but perhaps that can be overcome with proper fixturing that will allow you to do half the hole from each side? Even with a small web left between the two hole sides, most of this could be removed with drill operations and then the edges cleaned up by hand with files, if need be. Just a thought for this early in the morning... Of course, if I can get at a 4 or 5-axis machine, I could just design a fixture that lets me machine most of the action at one time. No repositioning of the part needed. Anyway, I'll have to do some more research on this and see what kind of options I can come up with. There's got to be a simple way to do this and still retain a normal operation: vertical swinging hammer, normal trigger guard, underlever to open and close it, etc. All good thoughts here, and I appreciate the input. I'll keep pondering... maxman | |||
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Someone had the idea to make the hole round, ream it, and use a ground and hardened pin for the block. The pin would get a face machined that the breech would butt into. He never did it, but when he made a "C" ring lapping tool with a ground pin in a reamed hole, the fit was so good, I could feel the difference between oils in the fit. | |||
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Smallfry, I'd have to agree that there are more appropriate choices than 440C at 60 HRc.Maybe a different stainless bur certainly below 55 HRc. | |||
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When Dean Miller started making the action DeHass promoted as his own, excuse me while I sneeze loudly bbbuulll$$$##!!tttt, Dean bought a good bandsaw and blade welder. After drilling 4 long holes in the corners and making sure his saw was cutting square he welded a new blade through it and cut out the middle. He then filed the inside a then fit the block to it. The rest of the action was trued up around the hole. Dean made his prototype rifle this way and also made them for others, like DeHass. Miller continued making these for 25 years and along the way started having someone wire edm them for him. The year I worked there they bought a used wire edm and now cut them in their own shop. gunmaker | |||
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Gun Maker- What role did DeHaas have in the Miller action? The logo on my two have a 'DM' in a circle as a trademark. I have correspondence from the company that has 'DeHaas' and 'Miller' printed in smaller letters in the 'DM' circle logo. Did he get his name on the action by writing about it in his books? It would seem he had more of a role than promotion. When and why did DeHaas and Miller have a falling out? Just wondering. Plateau Hunter | |||
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My story is one sided here, but when I started at Miller Arms and asked about DeHass the dark clouds came rollin in and the forehead veins started showing. The way I heard it is DeHass was a writer who liked single shots and had a following. Dean Miller was a gunsmith who liked single shots and elk hunted with his own custom made Sharps Borchardt in 30-348 imp. Dean wanted a smaller action with a striker and DeHass thought it was a good idea and wanted to write about it. Miller built the rifle and DeHass smooth talked him into putting his name on it to help sales. Dean made guns and DeHass promoted them getting his cut for every one. The drawing of the DM action in the DeHass book doesn't look much like the actions I worked on. But after being threatened by the DeHass family lawyer several times Miller still sends the DeHass family a check for every action shipped. After reading numerous articles about Dakota Arms while I worked there and seeing Don Allen take credit for other people's work, I just can't believe much that I read. Try starting a thread here asking a question about who really invented the Don Allen duplicator and see if any of the LEGENDS of the trade chime in. I do know there are some writers that do a pretty good job at telling the truth, but a lot of times the truth they tell is what they have been instructed to tell. Or sometimes they are just looking for free guns, or in the DeHass case, a check in the mail for every gun that someone else made. Sorry if I'm kinda jaded..... There's a lot of BS in print.. gunmaker | |||
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Hi All, Interesting subject, as I am interested in making up a single shot action for my personal use. I would really like to see a photo of the DM action, are there any still for sale? where? & how much do they go for? Thanks, Marcos (elalto) | |||
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I have always thought it might be feasible to build the receiver with a detachable sideplate so the breechblock mortise could be milled. If the sideplate was made so it interlocked with the receiver body, strength should be very nearly equivalent to a solid piece. For that matter, one could build the receiver this way then weld the sideplate in place. Regards, Bill. | |||
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Here is one built in Houston that really works. It follws the original externally with modern internals. | |||
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Elalto Check out Yahoo Yellow pages for Miller Arms in St Onge, SD. They still make the high and low boys. The price a few years ago was around $1250 + excise tax. I'm not sure what it costs now. It's as accurate a falling block as you'll find anywhere. Blistering fast lock time, striker fired, hunting or target trigger. For pics try calling Cyle and asking him to email some. They didn't have a web site the last I checked. gunmaker | |||
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Thanks, I'll call and see what I can find out. I'll post if anything interesting comes of it. Marcos (elalto) | |||
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I guess I should have stated that dimensional drawings for the action I posted above are available in AutoCad, not just actions or barreled actions. Since the thread is about building them I thought someone might be interested. It is a Daniel Fraser side lever (1884-1911, more or less) replica with modernized internals for increased reliability. It will take up to a 500 NE and modern magnum pressures as is. The guy who posts here as "huntingcat" is the man to contact if anyone is interested but with all the work he put into developing this I don't think you should expect them to be free and no, I don't get a cut, he's just a friend with a damn good action. | |||
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Whoever made that is a GUNSMITH. Congratulations. Take Care! | |||
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That's his rifle in 30-40 Krag. My action is in the works as we speak. I go pet it about once a month. | |||
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tigger - that is one beautiful gun! Hats off to the gent who put that together. I wouldn't mind talking/typing with your friend huntingcat about the details thanks for the tip and the pics. maxman | |||
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Just open the search engine and put "huntingcat" in the user name box, set for newer than one year and go. You can get to his email from there. I say newer than one year because he reads a lot more than he posts. P.S. The stock was done by Dominic Paisano out of San Antonio to hungtingcat's spec. | |||
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