The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing How to "rehabilitate" a very dirty barrel?Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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I have just found out that my hunting buddy cleans his rifles by using a few patches soaked with Hoppes and that is it. No jag or brush has been used on these barrels for years. He shoots 3-4 inch groups routinely with factory ammo and is frustrated when going to the range with me. He is now asking me to assist him in improving his accuracy by working up handloads. I think that we need to first start by cleaning his barrels. Any thoughts on the best way to get such a barrel clean would be greatly appreciated? Thanks for any advice that you post. | ||
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Ron, About 4 yrs ago one of my good friends, Clarke, thought his son had fooled with the scope of his grand father's 264 win. which was not shooting right. The son claimed he knew better than touch the scope of that gun. Any way Clarke asked me to re-zero it for him. Clarke had inherited the gun about 20 yrs before and each year ran a couple of patches of hoppee though it and called it good. At the range on the gun was shooting 3-4 in groups, this was the gun that convinced me at the tender age of 15 that a 264 was magic. I will not go into the shots I have seen made and made myself with this rifle. I could not believe it was shooting this bad and decided to clean before monkeying with the scope. I went into the shop and spent 4 hrs working with Shooter Choice, Sweets, and JB until the bore was shining. Afterwards the first 3 shot group with 140 gr Winchester Factory Loads went 0.8", 1-1/2 high at 100 yds; just where his grand father had zero'ed it in 1959. Tell your friend to buy the above mentioned products along with brushes, a couple backs of patches, 12 pack of his favorite brew and go to work. Saludos...Frank | |||
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Ron, I just read Bearman's post that is the exact procedure I used. Good Luck. Saludos...Frank | |||
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Ron, Check the JB Compound Post on this same Forum. Saludos...Frank | |||
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If it is that badly fouled, you might want to give some thought to looking up a gunsmith or friend that has a Foul Out unit around for serious cleaning. Once it is clean with the foul out, constant maintenance will keep it clean without committing multiple evenings to cleaning each time out. Also, consider getting a couple other things your will need to clean yourself- a bore guide for your rod, a good one piece rod, a good set of jags, and LOTS of patches. Another good trick is to find a chamber plug and fill the bore with cleaning solution like Shooter's choice, Butches, or even Sweets and let it set overnight. Drain and brush out the gunk left behind. Either way, once it is cleaned, show your friend the proper way to keep it spotless and the accuracy will easily be maintained. - Sheister [This message has been edited by Sheister (edited 04-13-2002).] | |||
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Do not, repeat do not, leave Sweet's in the bore for longer than 15 minutes or so, | |||
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I've also found that Kroil left to soak for a while ( 20-30 min.) helps lift the fouling away from the steel and makes for a shorter job. Tell the cheapskate to buy whats needed before the barrel needs to be replaced and let him do the math. Kroil mixed in with Shooters Choice cuts fouling quick. | |||
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Is it safe to leave Shooter's Choice in the barrel overnight? The instructions on the bottle specifically state not to leave it in a gun over night. I can borrow an Outers II Foul Out unit but I do not know if it is safe to use. The chemicals have been on the shelf for about 3 years stored in a basement at 65 degrees. | |||
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Any of the copper removing solvents that have ammonia in them are not good to leave in the barrel. It shouldn't be needed. The Kroil and Shooters Choice recipe was not of my creation but what a lot of benchresters are using and that bunch are meticulous about a clean bore. The Kroil is good for lots of things but I keep mine for the guns mostly. A light coat through the bore seems to help minimize fouling or at least prolong the point where group size diminishes. | |||
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quote: I've been using Outer's Foulout III for about two years. At first I thought I'd been had. Wouldn't work. Then decided to follow directions. The reverse electoplating depends on the bore being completely detreased. Bought the recommended Gunslick Crud Cutter. Damn thing really went to work! First I run a patch with a little Remoil to clear powder residue. Then several patches with Crud Cutter. Install rod and connect unit. 20 minutes and all the fouling is moved on to the rod. Bores that have been fouled succesively over the years without a decent cleaning may take 4-5 times as layers of residue and fouling are stacked up. I was skeptical using this thing at first on my slilen barrels and customer bores. No longer. No more brushing or harsh chemicals! One caveat besides following directions. Do not reuse solution. I tried that on my Browning Low Wall .260. Left it an hour before checking. Solution showed signs of rust. Fortunately no harm. Bought the quart size containers of solution as an economy measure. Wally | |||
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| <BigBob> |
RONL This is a method I've had good results with. Remove barrel and action from the stock. Then I saturate the bore and metal surfaces with BREAKFREE CLP. But it aside for at least several hours on its side. If possible leave it overnight. Use good brass bore brushes on the bore and a stiff tooth brush on the exterior. If there is rust on the exterior that doesn't come off, VERY LIGHTLY rub with a four aught steel wool. GENTLY! To much vigor and the blueing will come off. If the chamber is in real bad shape, I'll mount a cleaning in a drill and spin a brass bore brush in the chamber. If it's only dirty spin the brush by hand for a few revs and swab with a bore swab. Use a new bore brush and start on the bore. If the bore is dirty you can feel it in the cleaning rod while pushing the brush through the bore. Alternate a bore brush and a bore swab with a good solvent on the swab. Once the brush goes through the bore smoothly, run several clean patches through the bore. Next come a little trick I picked up a long time ago. Get a Q-tip and bend the shaft until the Q-tip will not fall through the bore when the muzzle is pointed up. With the tip nearest the muzzle is about a quarter of an inch from the muzzle, and in the bore, let a bright light shine on the Q-tip. This will light up the bore bright as can be. I use a magnifing glass to inspect the bore. The burnt powder residue should be gone, but you may still have copper in the bore. Sweets 7.62 is the best method to remove the copper. Use a Q-tip often to inspect the bore. Once the copper is gone wipe the bore with clean patches until they come out clean. Coat the bore with a good oil, I like BREAKFREE CLP, and let it sit for awhile. While using a patch to put the BREAKFREE CLP in the bore, also put a coat on the interior of the action. Wipe the action and bore with a clean patch, and you're done. It works for me and has cleaned some very dirty rifles. Good luck.  ------------------ | ||
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