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One of Us |
I inhered a .222Rem Sako Vixen my dad bought in the 1960's. I want to remove the varnish from the stock. What is the best way to do it and how do I clean out the "checkring" without a "checkring" tool? | ||
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One of Us |
paint removers will work but still need some sanding afterwards - clean checkering with a wire brush | |||
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One of Us |
It depends on what kind of "varnish" is on it. If it is really varnish, then I use acetone, lacquer thinner, or Xylene. Paint remover is not needed for that. Now, if it is a poly deritive, then it will take a far more powerful solvent; then paint remover might or might not work. | |||
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One of Us |
Be careful using xylene..Internet search may convince you not to use it at all | |||
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One of Us |
I found out the hard way that liquid mosquito repellant will do a good job | |||
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One of Us |
Try Formby’s Furniture Restorer. Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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one of us |
Yeah, I worked in a chemical plant for 4 years and handled Xylene every day. Got diagnosed with prostate cancer at age 52. I'd steer clear of it. My favorite remover is Citristrip. Very safe and does an excellent job even on tough poly's or epoxies.
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One of Us |
Ok, don't use Xylene, but that is what I use to thin the paint for my WW2 Military vehicles. But I don't handle it every day. It is banned in California, and the Jeep restorers there have a problem getting a good paint job. But for melting varnish, there are other solvents that work as well. I usually use lacquer thinner on stocks. As for the modern lemon juice solvents; never found one that worked. | |||
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one of us |
Yeah me too! Put on some DEET one evening in a deer stand and my nice finish I just put on a rifle stock came off in my hands.
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One of Us |
Thank you very much for the advise! I will try it over the weekend. | |||
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