I've had a steel cased Russian 30-06 stick in my IZH double. The case separated and boy is it stuck. I've tried a patch on a chamber cleaner and a chamber brush in the case but it won't tap out. Brass would be no problem. Before I get out the mill or the molten lead does anybody have an idea to get this steel bitch out?

[ 06-22-2003, 09:59: Message edited by: Dr. Duc ]

I'd use the molten lead approach. Wad up a gum sized piece of newspaper, or drop an old bullet into the case and use a torch or a large soldering iron and melt some solder into the case. Or melt it somewhere else and pour it into the case, doesn't matter how. If the heat thing scares you try using some epoxy instead of lead. Anyway, however it is done just tap it out with a cleaning rod after it hardens.

Dr Duc
I would not use heat, on a double rifle you might loosen the barrel solder. Try this:
get a thread tapping bit that will not touch the chamber and "tap" the stuck case. Screw the proper bolt onto the tapped case and with a cleaning rod tap on the bolt from the muzzle. This should "pop" it out. Just make sure the diameter of the tap will not touch the chamber.

Also:
A WWII M-1 Garand stuck case remover might work.

[ 06-22-2003, 11:47: Message edited by: N E 450 No2 ]

You can get a stuck case remover from www.eabco.com They also carry chamber inserts including "Navy Sleeves".
How does that IZH double shoot so far?

One thing nice about a break open they are easy to work on. I have used the tap idea a couple of time works well.

I have had success with this problem using an 1/8-27 NPT Pipe tap. This will thread into the headless end of a 30-06 and the 27 threads per inch really holds. Just turn the tap in as far as possible (I use thread cutting oil) and then with a brass or stainless rod from the muzzle end drive the whole thing out. A pipe tap is tapered and the maximum thread cutting diameter is .376 protected by a .435 shank. With a little care there is no danger of hitting the chamber wall. Take care and good luck

Before trying anything that could possibly damage the chamber or bore if something goes wrong, try dry ice in what's left of the steel case. If you're lucky, the case will get very cold very fast and shrink minimally, but enough to pop it out before the barrel becomes the same temperature.

Perhaps it's the lacquer on teh outside of those steel cases that's making this one so sticky?

Why not experiment on some other cases with different solvents (paint thinner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner...). If you find one that takes the coating off a case or at least makes it really slippery, then you can plug the breech and pour enough down the barrel to soak the case fragment. With 0.001" or so less lacquer holding it in there, maybe the case will slide right out.

H. C.

I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but: Why not spend the extra cents, buying/reloading descent ammo? You'we got a $1000+ shooter and are trying to bitch some $.1-.01 out of shooting a shot?

Save for a forthnight, spend it on new shells, primers, powder and boolits! Reload and have a (SAFE) ball.

Getting blown up for some old surplus ammo it'nt worth riskin' life and limbs for!

There's so few of us left!

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Dane I wasn't being cheap shooting Russian ammo. I had Sierra Match alongside. I was trying to see what it was regulated for. The Hanson tap was too short I've ordered a shell extractor and may end up tapping with something else or what. At least I have a multitude to try.

That is but one of the reasons why I NEVER shoot steel cased ammunition.

Wolf brand 223 Remington ammo is so cheap and tempting, but then I see myself in the same predicament with a $1000 National Match AR-15, and I have to agree with The Dane.

You would think a Russian Rifle would shoot Russian ammo. Dr.Duc, how many times did the rifle fire before the case separated?

Safe easy cheap stuck case extraction.

Get a rod that is under bore size, thread one end and put a rubber plunger on it that is a slip fit in the bore. Fill the bore partially full of heavy oil, give the rod end a tap. The hydraulic force will push out the stuck case. Be sure to protect the crown with a couple of wraps of tape. This is from gunsmithing kinks and really works.

This is Barnul commercial 168gr ammo. It separated on the second shot but the other case also showed incipient separation. I've shot the Barnul 180 gr in it once before, if I remember, without incident. Never used the 168gr before.
The lower barrel shoots into 3/4" at 50 yds. I never got a group on the upper.

Chuck, that is a good technique, but it will not work with a seperated case.
Dr. Duc, did you shoot any American ammo in the rifle first, and if so does it show any signs if head seperation?
If you are lucky this is an ammo problem not a problem with the rifle.

I shot this rifle some a few years ago when my vision was going bad using brass cased 150 and 165 gr US ammo. I never knew if it was my vision or the loads causeing poor groups.
My sight is now almost good again -at least I can see irons again and I decided to see what it was regulated for. EAA is not only no help -they are RUDE if you need info. "Of course it's regulated".
I never had any problem with brass ammo.
The lower barrel shoots 3 into 3/4" at 50yds.

Dr.Duc
Did they tell you what bullet it was regulated for?
If you do not reload, or just do not want to reload for this rifle, do what I recommend for my friends that do not reload and get a new rifle. I tell them to go to a well stocked gunstore and buy one box of every load they have in the bullet weight/style that is suitable for the game you intend to hunt. Test all the different loads and pick the one that shoots the best. Go back to the gunstore and buy 10 or more boxes of that load, sight in and test at the distances you plan to shoot. Use the rest of the left over test ammo for offhand and field position shooting practice.Then do a little practice with your primary hunting ammo. Now you have a broken in, sighted in rifle you are familar with. Go hunt.

Have you got the seperated case out yet?
Keep us posted on your results.

[ 06-24-2003, 00:58: Message edited by: N E 450 No2 ]

450- That is the idea I was working on at the time. I had Federal -Nosler 180 gr, Hornaday lite mag, Federal Sierra 168gr match, Rem 220 corlokt, Rem 150 gr PMC 150grball and Russian 165 because it's a Russian rifle.
I do reload and I'll get a load that shoots when I get this bitch out. I'm letting it think it has the upper hand at the moment.

There is a tool that is used for pulling brake shoes or something like that and it will pull any stuck case out of any double rifle in a flash...the problem is I wrote that info down and lost it before I got home and don't remember what it is called, its the only way to go..It slips in any chamber and you twist the handle and snug it up an knock the shell out....

Can anyone help me and Doc on this one, surly there is a mechanic out there that knows what I'm talking about???

Here is another idea that works with stuck cases:
Plug the end of the barrel and pour in a good penetrating oil such as Kroil, or the cheaper Red Devil. Set the gun aside for four or five days. Then use the tools to remove the case. This should make it much easier to remove and you won't leave scratches, etc., in the chamber.

I got the case out using the bullet and epoxy method. I found a putty type epoxy that I could form into a roll and push into the case without getting it on the chamber walls. Set it up and tapped it out-with a litte persuasion.
Thanks everybody!

Glad you got the stuck case out. Let us know how the ammo test works out.

Dr.:
After all that, I'd set the gun aside for a week or two in hopes that it might forget how it got itself stuck up like that. Guns have short memories, you know. They will shoot a nice group one minute, you go have a few beers and the damned thing won't hit a barn when you come back and shoot again.

[ 06-29-2003, 06:50: Message edited by: rootbeer ]