I have just completed a refinishing project and would like some advice. I have 14 coats of hand rubbed tung oil on my stock. It looks great. However, I would prefer a more satin finish. Is it to late or is there a way to go from the high gloss to a more satin appearance?

There are several ways, but none seem to last. Using the gun makes wear spots look shiny.

Here's what I would do. Use some good grade 220 grit aluminum oxide and take the finsh back "almost" to the wood leaving some finish and the pores filled.

Get a can of Minwax safin spar urethane in the green can. Mix this thoroughly and I do mean thoroughly. Thin the Minwax with paint thinner
using about 2-3 parts minwax to 1 part thinner.

Using a piece of "t" shirt material apply the thinned minwax just like you did the tung oil.
(Rubbing it almost dry.) Use as many coats as you deem necessary to get the finish you want.

With a final coat of gunstock wax, it will have that warm "glow" you seek. I use 0000 steel wool between coats and after the final one before the wax.

Just make quite sure that the finish is completely dry between coats and there will be no problems with the steel wool experienced by some who finish with soft oil.

By the way, tung oil is quite soft and does not wear well for me. The Minwax spar urethane wears like iron and can be touched up just like any oil finish. It is actually tung oil modified with urethane. Not all urethane is the same. Just be sure to get Minwax SATIN SPAR urethane in the green can. ((Oil based.)

Hope this helps.

Don

I cant speak to Don's advice, I've only used spar urethane for the base coat, not top coat.

You might do well to apply a coat of tung oil mixed with rottenstone. This will cut the gloss off your finish and yield a rather warm satin "glow".

Don't leave this finish on the stock, wipe it clean and dry once you have completely rubbed it all over.

Regards,

Dan

Simply wiping the stock with either lacquer thinner or acetone will remove gloss with an oil base finish .

CLEAN NON LINTING rag or Cotton tee shirt , Soak an end with the thinner of your choice wipe in one direction only .

Allow to flash or dry off see what you thing repeat if necessary it's far easier than sanding .

As posted rubbing the finish with rottenstone will also work , I prefer just wiping or 0000 steel wool .

After you've finished knocking down the gloss too your satisfaction , apply carnuba wax over the entire

stock wipe it off and it's sealed with a satin finish .

If future projects loom keep abreast of this material as it's the " Ultimate Wood Finish systems "

http://www.epifanes.com/products.html A favorite trick of professional yacht maintenance people when

doing bright work ( varnish urethane finishes aboard Boats on hardwoods ) Is to use super high gloss

for 3 coats followed by 2 coats of satin ( Light scuffing between coats ) . It gives ultimate UV

protection with a satin hand rubbed sheen . Gunstocks you can simply use the satin straight and achieve

wonderful Old English stock finishes . With far less effort and Superior protection .

How about Birchwood Casy Stock Sheen and Conditioner? I have never used it but isn't this what it was made for?

quote:

Originally posted by Abob:
How about Birchwood Casy Stock Sheen and Conditioner? I have never used it but isn't this what it was made for?

I've used it, it works well. I think of it as liquid rottenstone.

1500 grit wet/dry, then rub a drop of finish in with your finger

Rottenstone and the oil used for the finish on a clean cotton rag (clean white tee-shirt) is what we use. Rub it out like you are applying wax to a car but in very small circles. Wipe any excess off being careful to get it out of any sharp corners. If the excess is left on, it will dry a dark gray film on top of your finish and will require doing it all over again to remove this little bit of dried material. This is most likely to happen along the shadow lines of any detailing your stock has.

Rottenstone is a very fine powder you can pick up at most wood working stores. If you can't find it locally, PM me your address and I'll send you a zip lock baggy with a couple of tablespoons in it. If you buy it, it is usually not real expensive but comes in a package that would be a life time supply for the average person.

I also use rottenstone but I apply it with a medium to hard felt pad. Use some of your finish (2"x2"a)area. Once the stock is covered and the surface is where you like it, use a soft cloth to remove the residue.

This method will do the job and will be permanent.

Chic,
Thanks for the tip about using a felt pad, I'll have to try that.

I do the same thing with the rottonstone but also add in a little bone black. IMO, It gives it an older look. I like it.



Terry

Good thread with great advice by pro's.
I've saved it all for a future stock job I'm planning.
Thank you,

Don

Thank you all for your replys. I will try the rottenstone mixed with the tung oil. Just as and FYI - I tried the Birtchwood Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner and it did not seem to cut the sheen.