Hello all,

Using a hybrid procedure from posts here on stock finishes I have made my way through sealing and filling a stock on a refinish job. And I now have it sitting with one coat of varnish "on" the wood. I like the look of a little bit of depth that this gives the finish, but the varnish is glossier than I would like.

My question is... What is the best way to knock down this "gloss" and bring back a "luster" (without cutting the varnish back down to wood)? On interior and general wood working projects I've had good luck getting the effect that I'm looking for by working over the varnish with some very fine steel wool, followed by buffing with a paste wax. Is doing something like this durable, and weather resistant, enough for a gunstock finish?

Any help on achieveing this "luster" would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Bob:

I use a method called sanding in. I use spar varnish thinned with mineral spirits and linseed oil or just thinned Watco Teak Oil Finish and sand in the finish with 320 grit followed by 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper. You can even go to 1200 grit or 1500 grit if you want a higher gloss.

You can achieve any level of gloss that you desire with this technique and the resultant finish is in the wood; not just a coating on the surface.

This type of finish wears quite well and can be very easily touched up if you should scratch or damage the stock.

You can also use pumice or rottenstone as grit to polish off the shine. Rottenstone is fine, pumice much coarser. Use linseed oil to mix with grit in thick paste and polish with felt pad or hand.Then clean off. You can get this stuff at an old fashion paint store or from Brownell's at higher cost. Good luck.

Sounds like you are on the right track. I would add two more coats of the spar varnish. You don't want to break trought when rubbing it out. Hint, screw a broom handle in the barrel channed through the front action screw hole for a handle. Are you spraying it?? If not float it on with a sable brush. Be carefull not to drip. I use semi-gloss varnish. Consiter it. Let it rest for at least a week.
At this point the varnish shouud be hard all the way through. Knock of the buggars with 400 grit wet dry paper. Use it wet. Once it is evenly dull, give it a once over with 600 grit, wet. I almost always use Dupont automitive rubbing compound. The red stuff. Either the kind in the pint can or the round tin. Use a moist clean rag to apply and work it. You are now getting the satin luster you are after. Really work it around well. You are cutting into the finish not just on and off like on a car. If you are really impatient or want a flatter finish, use super fine steel wool instead of a rag with the rubbing compound. Carefull, it cuts fast. Whatever you use keep it wet. If you want it shinier use automitive polishing compound. I don't use much pumice and rotten stone on gunstocks, no particular reason other than convience.

What you are doing is my standard, for hire finish. I now use conversion varnish, but spar varnish is fine, just takes longer to dry.

[ 06-27-2003, 19:22: Message edited by: scot ]

I rotten stone and oil it fairly hard and smooth.

My last step, when the stock is finished is to use Pilkingtons Red Oil rubbed in by hand or brushed and wiped, I prefer brush and wipe off...the stock is filled and this is a top finish to give that old London Oil look to the finish, after a couple of coats of this I let it stand for a week and lightly flatten the service with rotten stone and oil again..let stand for another week, quite this when your satisfied..It is a beatiful last touch.

Bobvthunter,

The extra fine steel wool with a little mineral spirits lightly rubbed will cut down the finish, but you should usually build up the finish before final rub out. You can use rotten stone on felt pads and cut with oil/water also.

Check out this link:

http://pub86.ezboard.com/fmilitaryfirearmrestorationcornerfrm34.showMessage?topicID=47.topic

Rottenstone and felt pads are available cheaper than brownell's at woodcraft.com.

Your are looking for a satin finish, but want the build up, in case you get a scratch later. The build up allows you to buff out the scratch and refinish. Building up the finish should take at least 5 coats.

Good Luck

If you've got the action and barrel perfectly bedded, wouldn't layering-up multiple coats of finish nullify the integrity of the bedding?

Hello bobvthunter,

You can apply as many coats of finish (within reason) as you want. Just be sure to cut it back with 0000 steel wool and a tack cloth each time. You need to build it up a bit to protect the stock. The key is to always let the stock thoroughly dry between coats. Be careful when rubbing it with any abrasive material or you'll go right back to the old finish. Easy does it, for sure. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal

Howdy,

Bobvthunter, you failed to mention whether you were using spar-varnish or a polyurethane. My methods are different with each.
1) SPAR VARNISH: after the first coat (which is carefully brushed in with a sable brush) I sand on each of the other coats with synthetic steel wool (3M product) until I get the effect I want. Be sure to use a non-pilling rag to wipe the finish down after sanding on...I use paper towels mostly. If it is still too glossy, use either rottenstone or pumice mixed with mineral oil to gently but firmly rub the finish down to the correct gloss.
2) POLYURETHANE: if I'm using poly, I brush on enough coats with the appropriate steelwooling and tack rag process in between, to get a 2 or 3 mil thick finish. I then use 600 grit sandpaper wetted with mineral oil. Use naptha to remove the mineral oil and let your eyes gaze into the finish under sunlight to determine how far to rub down the finish. The trick here is to apply the POLY about every 6 hours so that the polymerzation process is one continuous process throughout the 3 mil layer. If you let the poly dry throughout, then add a layer, you will find witness marks in your finished rubbed out piece.

My experience,

Coach