How does one measure the taper on a barrel shank?
I am now looking for info on SMLE and Remington 700 shank tapers.

I have a lathe I suppose I can put the dials into use? If the barrel is off the action then it is obvious one can center it into the chuck and use a cutter to touch at different locations, record the numbers, and determine the taper. Right now I need the exact taper to make barrel vice shims to get the barrel off in the first place! No free lunch for me.

Advice is appreciated.

Pyrotek---

I'm not sure what you're talking about. The shank is not tapered but the portion of the barrel just ahead of the reciever ring sometimes are. Glass bed the barrel blocks for a perfect fit.

Pyrotek,
There are so many ways.
1. Measure 1 inch in length then measure the dia. at each end of the inch. Multiply by 12 to get taper per foot. Look at the table for degrees (I'm assuming you have a Machinery's Handbook). Set compound accordingly.
2. Set the barrel up on center (breech end to tailstock). Mount dial gauge on compound and adjust until compound matches the taper by running the compound in and out.
3. Simply eyeball the side of the compound and swivel it until it is in alignment with taper on barrel. This is probably close enough.
4. Use a protractor. Not real precise.
When you go to remove the barrel from your trusty Lee Enfied be sure the wrench fits the action quite well. The receivers are kind of soft and the barrels frequently on pretty tight. Regards, Bill.

Use a reduced taper pipe fitting, put the barrel in it center, fill with hot lead..Use an old barrel..knock it off then cut it in half, same as glass bedding but lead give a better purchase with rosin...make one for each barrel contour..lasts forever, never slips.

Pyrotech, as Jack mentioned, the shank is cylindrical. Mike it and order one from Brownells, they are not expensive.

Thanks for the tips,

I today made a tapered hole on the wood block blank that come with the vise : Barrelled action was semi-securely placed between headstock/tailstock, then the compound rest is swung to closely match the taper(as per Bill's instruction #3). Indeed it's close enough. The block was then parted with a cutoff wheel cuz I was too lazy to go out to buy a wood slitting saw, the garage could smoke salmon.

Mixed some Acraglas gel to take up empty space in the area where barrel diameter suddenly drops, and area of the flat surface at 12 o'clock of the barrel just forward of receiver ring. The two blocks are hold together with rubber bands, and coins to space the blocks. It is curing now, quite a mess(the gel overflows, merged), hope I will be able to get it off without trouble.